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The engine is eating oil 12000km
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Yeah, the spark plug anode doesn't appear to be oil fouled.
However, there seems to be excessive carbon build-up around its threaded electrode rim?
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Forum Folks:
Ideally this Community strives to be a safe and neutral playground for motorcycle enthusiasts. There is a ton of nasty in the world - sure. It doesn't mean it needs to be here. There are many other platforms to argue out the ugly. Consider using those.
Let's try to help by offering assistance and ideas to solve a member's problem and keep the thread alive.
Ideally this Community strives to be a safe and neutral playground for motorcycle enthusiasts. There is a ton of nasty in the world - sure. It doesn't mean it needs to be here. There are many other platforms to argue out the ugly. Consider using those.
Let's try to help by offering assistance and ideas to solve a member's problem and keep the thread alive.
there must be a little smoke try to keep a hand behind the end-can the bikes catalyst can may be burn the smoke, but the oil looks rather dark and dirty i do oil change after 10000 km and have never got that oil color
inspect and change both the air filters it must be somehow damaged
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Are all the plugs like this one? This one doesn't appear oil fouled?
![Finger Wood Thumb Automotive tire Nail]()
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Agree, that plug looks surprisingly clean and correct color.
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@Konstantin Have you found out what caused the damage yet, and is it being repaired?
If the bike has been dropped a lot and oil overfilled, you could get oil in the combustion chamber. Then a piece of burnt carbon could get between the ring and cylinderwall effecting compression and oil consumption.
Replace 1/2 quart of oil with marvel mystery oil, run for a few miles to get good and hot and replace oil. Good cleaner. Run a good quality fuel injector cleaner too. You might get some of that carbon dysolved off the rings and cylinder engine casings.
Replace 1/2 quart of oil with marvel mystery oil, run for a few miles to get good and hot and replace oil. Good cleaner. Run a good quality fuel injector cleaner too. You might get some of that carbon dysolved off the rings and cylinder engine casings.
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If the rings are not available, then no amount of decarbonization will help without disassembling the engine. The only thing that you can clean the combustion chamber, but the oil zhor will not stop. I repeat, zhor appeared at 360 km.
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I did not repair, most likely I will sell the motorcycle as it is.
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What is “zhor”?
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I assumed it was an ancient creature of some sort. But, let's see what @Konstantin writes.
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When the engine eats oil.
2 questions,
1, are both cylinders scored
2, I didn't see where Eni 10-30 is rated for motorcycles, looks more like a tractor oil. Is it rated? https://oilproducts.eni.com/en_BX/a...-oils/eni-multitech-stou/eni-multitech-10w-30
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Eni has a line of motorcycle specific oils, used to be Agip. Both 10w30 are Jaso MA, MA2 certified.
https://oilproducts.eni.com/en_APAC...s-and-motorcycles/engine-oils/eni-i-ride-moto
Used to use their 20w50 4T racing full synthetic in quite a few Italian and other Euro bikes.
https://oilproducts.eni.com/en_APAC...s-and-motorcycles/engine-oils/eni-i-ride-moto
Used to use their 20w50 4T racing full synthetic in quite a few Italian and other Euro bikes.
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I reckon you mean "drinks" oil (same difference I spoze
)
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Some recommend oilchange @ everry 5000 miles even on cars that has 10K intervals 😉
i change oil and olil filters every 10000 km. and the oil do not become black as on the photos posted here (Motul 10w40) cold climate 🇸🇪
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