That's a good question. I don't run more than a GPS myself but I understand the pleasures of heated gear.
The most important question no one is asking
What's the electrical output on this bike, and how much is left for us?
Can you run a Skill saw on it or are we looking at only charging a gps? Somehow I've gotten old and spoiled and have grown attached to my heated gear. I'm sure there will be more than enough, but I'm curious to what extent.
Can you run a Skill saw on it or are we looking at only charging a gps? Somehow I've gotten old and spoiled and have grown attached to my heated gear. I'm sure there will be more than enough, but I'm curious to what extent.
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what will you do in the worst case?
Pout? Stop at Walmart and buy an extra layer when I get cold. Pretty sure Honda make sure there's more than enough power, it's just to what extent.
you cant up system power?? bigger battery, second battery?Pout? Stop at Walmart and buy an extra layer when I get cold. Pretty sure Honda make sure there's more than enough power, it's just to what extent.
Battery isn't the issue, it's what the Stator/Regulator can put out. If you draw more power than the bike makes, you draw from the battery and it's only only a matter of time until the battery goes flat. Bigger battery or more battery would lengthen that time, but it's really not a good idea. Only real option would be to upgrade the stator (rewind or wait for someone else to make an aftermarket one).
I Use a Separate Modular Battery Setup
I often ride at night in the woods and I use a lot of lighting. I mounted a Pelican case with vent holes in it on my rear cargo plate and I placed a smaller AGM battery in it that I would keep charged via a Battery Tender. I ran bayonet connectors to removable LED lighting that I clamped onto my handlebars.
Since LED's draw so little amps, I could get a solid ride with all the lights on, which was about an hour. The lights were crazy awesome. Being an AGM, I could run it way down and not worry about losing a cell. Charged quickly and did not get too hot. I sold that setup and I will build another for the AT, buying Lifetime LED Lights for it this time. I'm aiming for 20K lumens with a runtime of at least a decent ride's duration.
I like the modularity of this and I can remove everything when I don't need it, for a cleaner look during daytime riding.
I can't wait for the AT. I bet it's stator will kick out a boatload of power.
Cheers and have a great week.
Palm
I often ride at night in the woods and I use a lot of lighting. I mounted a Pelican case with vent holes in it on my rear cargo plate and I placed a smaller AGM battery in it that I would keep charged via a Battery Tender. I ran bayonet connectors to removable LED lighting that I clamped onto my handlebars.
Since LED's draw so little amps, I could get a solid ride with all the lights on, which was about an hour. The lights were crazy awesome. Being an AGM, I could run it way down and not worry about losing a cell. Charged quickly and did not get too hot. I sold that setup and I will build another for the AT, buying Lifetime LED Lights for it this time. I'm aiming for 20K lumens with a runtime of at least a decent ride's duration.
I like the modularity of this and I can remove everything when I don't need it, for a cleaner look during daytime riding.
I can't wait for the AT. I bet it's stator will kick out a boatload of power.
Cheers and have a great week.
Palm
The other question:
Valve service interval? Here's to hoping >16k km. Most likely bucket over shim.
Valve service interval? Here's to hoping >16k km. Most likely bucket over shim.
That's what I was thinking, something higher capacity that might even have a better running time but I like to think what they'll include is what will be sufficient for the majority.you cant up system power?? bigger battery, second battery?
Apparently output is [email protected] rpm. I cannot verify this though.
Anyone with a service manual or is it stated in the owner's manual??
Anyone with a service manual or is it stated in the owner's manual??
Honda NC700, also with a parallel twin SOHC engine (not Unicam), valve inspection distance is 8000 miles/12,800 Km. (Note: schedule for the Fit car from which the NC engine is derived, recommends inspecting valves when they are noisy or 25000 miles.) I know, it's all very interesting but not helpful. Or maybe it is; if it demonstrates that Honda motorcycle maintenance engineers might be on the obsessive end of the spectrum.The other question:
Valve service interval? Here's to hoping >16k km. Most likely bucket over shim.
Maintenance schedule for the Pioneer 1000 (found here: http://www.hondaprokevin.com/2016-pioneer-1000-5-maintenance-service-schedule-sxs-utv-atv/), which shares the basic engine with the AT, calls for inspecting valve clearances at 1800 miles, 3000 km or 300 hour intervals.
Since motorcycles run at higher speeds than 1500-1700 pound, 4x4 SXS's (Pioneer) in cleaner air and generally impose lighter loads on the engine, 300 hours would seem to be most appropriate interval. To estimate distance, use your average speed per hour to determine the correct mileage to inspect valves. Or better yet, wait for Honda to release the maintenance schedule for the AT.:laugh:
My VFR1200F has the same valve train. Valve clearance inspection every 48000 Km. Mine did not need any adjustment. There are examples with more than 100000 km with no need to adjustment. It surely depend how you use the bike. But me ,with normally use on road, what means between 3000 - 6000 rpm bike needs no valve maintenance.
My son raced five years with CRF250 same valve train. Valve inspection every week. He raced till 70 hours without need to adjustment. After that the intake valves are tapping in(don't now the exactly techn word) and the clearance became less. That was the time to chance the valves(valves seat was worn out). New valves and on the track again for +- 70 hours. Than you need to change the 4 valves and the chain.Why intake, because they are differently from the exhaust material where exhaust where titanium. This is what they told me at honda)
So this was my experience, in case off my sons racing capacity, but I can tell you in Dunkerque (france) in the sand riding at full throttle for an hour the bike is suffering.
My son raced five years with CRF250 same valve train. Valve inspection every week. He raced till 70 hours without need to adjustment. After that the intake valves are tapping in(don't now the exactly techn word) and the clearance became less. That was the time to chance the valves(valves seat was worn out). New valves and on the track again for +- 70 hours. Than you need to change the 4 valves and the chain.Why intake, because they are differently from the exhaust material where exhaust where titanium. This is what they told me at honda)
So this was my experience, in case off my sons racing capacity, but I can tell you in Dunkerque (france) in the sand riding at full throttle for an hour the bike is suffering.
I'll wager 15,000 kmHonda NC700, also with a parallel twin SOHC engine (not Unicam), valve inspection distance is 8000 miles/12,800 Km. (Note: schedule for the Fit car from which the NC engine is derived, recommends inspecting valves when they are noisy or 25000 miles.) I know, it's all very interesting but not helpful. Or maybe it is; if it demonstrates that Honda motorcycle maintenance engineers might be on the obsessive end of the spectrum.
Maintenance schedule for the Pioneer 1000 (found here: http://www.hondaprokevin.com/2016-pioneer-1000-5-maintenance-service-schedule-sxs-utv-atv/), which shares the basic engine with the AT, calls for inspecting valve clearances at 1800 miles, 3000 km or 300 hour intervals.
Since motorcycles run at higher speeds than 1500-1700 pound, 4x4 SXS's (Pioneer) in cleaner air and generally impose lighter loads on the engine, 300 hours would seem to be most appropriate interval. To estimate distance, use your average speed per hour to determine the correct mileage to inspect valves. Or better yet, wait for Honda to release the maintenance schedule for the AT.:laugh:
What are the odds? hehh
Honda CRF1000L maintenance schedule is 12000km, same as NC.
Well, this is unconfirmed till I hold the service manual But this is what I was told few months ago and I believe it.
Well, this is unconfirmed till I hold the service manual
But this is what I was told few months ago and I believe it.
I've got the AT owner's manual in front of me and I can confirm the valve interval is 24,000 km or 16,000 miles (which is actually 25,600 km!).
Stilll looking for information on the original question though - what's the alternator power output and how much is "spare"?
If you look under the seat area you can see the reg/rect - I haven't inspected it closely but it looks like a Shindengen FH020, which are rated at 50 Amps I believe. I just fitted one of those to my KTM 990 to replace the original which had failed.
Stilll looking for information on the original question though - what's the alternator power output and how much is "spare"?
If you look under the seat area you can see the reg/rect - I haven't inspected it closely but it looks like a Shindengen FH020, which are rated at 50 Amps I believe. I just fitted one of those to my KTM 990 to replace the original which had failed.
I am sure it will run a set of heated grips and a set of led spots a gps and a heated jacket
hopefully
hopefully
I'm planning on running a set of Denali D2s, MCCruise cruise control, smartphone charging and up to a full set of heated gear (gloves, jacket liner, pants liner, socks)... so I'll definitely be pushing the charging system to the max.
I'm going to also fit one of these though, so make sure I'm not pushing the charging system too far...
http://clearwaterlights.com/infopg_cvs.html
I'm going to also fit one of these though, so make sure I'm not pushing the charging system too far...
http://clearwaterlights.com/infopg_cvs.html
Socks?! Blimey - Ice Road Biker off to Prudhoe Bay?!
I'll stick with just some grips! Lightweight me...
I'll stick with just some grips! Lightweight me...
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