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Socks?! Blimey - Ice Road Biker off to Prudhoe Bay?!

I'll stick with just some grips! Lightweight me...
Haha... actually, yes! :grin2: I'm planning a Prudhoe Bay trip and also the Dempster Highway within the next couple of years.

I expect to very rarely / never use the heated pants liner and heated socks. But if traveling into the unknown (I also want to do the Altiplano at some point, and it can get ferociously cold there I'm told) I want to at least have them in my luggage just in case.

Mind you, I once did a trip in the UK from London down to Cornwall on Christmas Eve in torrential rain... heated socks would have been nice to have then too!
 

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When you say pants do you mean "pants" UK or "pants" US?! I have (somewhat unwanted) visions of an electrified jock strap for some reason. Must be because the other half is watching Magic Mike (again!).

Anyway, that aside, all sounds pretty awesome - I hope you get to do it all.
 

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lol! The US version of pants (getting acclimated to life over here, though people still don't understand my pronunciation of 'tomato')... Actually, I believe they're more like long johns. Either way, not somewhere you'd want an electrical fire! :)

Thanks mate, me too!
 

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Charging System

If it is 490 watts that will be ideal. That should run your Led driving lights, GPS, charge your phone, and your Gerbings heated jacket and gloves. The thing that we need to check out is the size of the charging wires from the regulator-rectifier to the battery. Honda has been known to go under-size in gauge and run it through a cheap 20A fuse holder. It gets a bit of corrosion on those contacts and the resistance and heat increase until it's "China Syndrome" melts that wire and fuse holder. My VFR800 and many more suffers this show stopper. Honda also tends to use the less expensive shunt type RR which converts all the excess charge current coming from the stater into heat. It is usually easy to upgrade to a Mosfet style RR and upgrade the gauge of the charge wire and a good water proof fuse holder. The Mosfet is electronically controlled and are more efficient and less heat.
 

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I'm planning on running a set of Denali D2s, MCCruise cruise control, smartphone charging and up to a full set of heated gear (gloves, jacket liner, pants liner, socks)... so I'll definitely be pushing the charging system to the max.

I'm going to also fit one of these though, so make sure I'm not pushing the charging system too far...

http://clearwaterlights.com/infopg_cvs.html
You're only missing the heated helmet, and you'll be feeling tropical :)
You must be from somewhere really cold to need all that, I just use heated grips and plenty of layers / decent kit
 

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You're only missing the heated helmet, and you'll be feeling tropical :)
You must be from somewhere really cold to need all that, I just use heated grips and plenty of layers / decent kit
I'm from the UK, but living in Colorado which can get a little chilly!

But most of the heated stuff is just going into a pannier for worst case scenarios on long trips. Been caught in snow storms before and it wasn't fun. I imagine only the heated jacket liner and heated gloves will be used in normal riding
 

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If it is 490 watts that will be ideal. That should run your Led driving lights, GPS, charge your phone, and your Gerbings heated jacket and gloves. The thing that we need to check out is the size of the charging wires from the regulator-rectifier to the battery. Honda has been known to go under-size in gauge and run it through a cheap 20A fuse holder. It gets a bit of corrosion on those contacts and the resistance and heat increase until it's "China Syndrome" melts that wire and fuse holder. My VFR800 and many more suffers this show stopper. Honda also tends to use the less expensive shunt type RR which converts all the excess charge current coming from the stater into heat. It is usually easy to upgrade to a Mosfet style RR and upgrade the gauge of the charge wire and a good water proof fuse holder. The Mosfet is electronically controlled and are more efficient and less heat.
STILL NO ANSWER

WHAT is the total output

WHAT is the running electrical load with spots and heated grips

WHAT is the spare capacity

CRAP THAT Honda CANT TELL US its 2016 you know

We need a 100% Factual answer

My Tiger 800 states the output and running load
 

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I'm curious, too.
My VFR had almost no extra output and fried a battery, rectifier and stator. My current ride, the Varadero, has very little useable extra power and with two 30W lights, GPS and heated hand grips it frequently draws from the battery.
Hopefully, since the AT is an 'adventure bike' it will have enough to run GPS, heated gear, grips, etc.

I can't wait for the AT. I bet it's stator will kick out a boatload of power.
 

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What's the electrical output on this bike, and how much is left for us?

Can you run a Skill saw on it or are we looking at only charging a gps? Somehow I've gotten old and spoiled and have grown attached to my heated gear. I'm sure there will be more than enough, but I'm curious to what extent.
Honda told me today

max output is [email protected] / 12 V – 11.2 Ah (10 HR)/11.8 Ah (20 HR)

my sums tell me

correct me if I'm wrong

so 0.49kw = 490 watts / 12v = 40 Amps

did not say what the running usage is

but 30 amps will run a fair bit of gear

Honda finished by saying "advise the customer that any failure that can be attributed to a non genuine part being fitted to the bike will invalidate the manufacturer warranty for that part" Heated grips included I suppose
 

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That warranty statement will be bad for me. I always add more electrical equipment and ports to handle the GPS, charge a phone, heated clothing, and a volt meter to monitor the load.
Superfunkomatic; My VFR suffered the same failure as did many more. It was caused be poor connectors on the 3 stator wires to the RR. Corrosion started, resistance increased,as did heat. The wires melted and touched a ground. That burns out the stator. The RR were poor quality Shunt type. The fuse connector at the battery was the same poor quality and that heated and melted that wire. There is a neat kit for that bike called The VFRharness that addresses the charging wire issue. Some mechanics used soldered connections Stator to RR with no connector. That seemed to handle the corrosion issue in that circuit. Lets hope Honda has upgraded all this so we do not repeat history
 

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me thinks that

My Jacket is 7.4 amps

heated grips on high 2.9 amps

don't know what sat nav uses ?? I think 1.9 amps
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All standard stuff.
490w so if charging at 14v current output will be 35 Amps, so ok whilst engine turning over at maybe 5000 rpm.
Battery is a starter unit so smallish but normal size. Total capacity is 5.9 amps for 20 hrs or 11Amps for 10 hours.
I suppose the real question is what is the total consumption of the standard bike with everything on?
So I would say room for 15 amps extra. So you only need to think of your heated kit. What is the rating of that?

I am using 12.2 amps so should be okay

on the grips front some manufacturers don't recommend fitting grips to ally bars as they dissipate the heat to quickly ?? Honda haven't got this wrong ???? as I've used them on ally bars before without a issue
 

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I am sure the AT will be fine whatever you want to run. I have a NC750X and run Warmnsafe full heated jacket, long johns, and socks, plus Gerbings heated gloves AND Honda heated grips. Of course they are rarely on full power but I have never had a problem. And these Honda grips function as a low voltage warning too. The light will flash if there's too much drain. It never has.
Mike
 

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Su0perF, maybe you're not running the engine RPM's high enough. Oh hold it, I think I've riden with you and that's NOT the problem. Assume you're still waiting for the AT to reach Alta,. did you buy std or the DCT unit.
I'm "thinking" about a AT, hence just joined this forum tonite. Lots of info already, and some "scary" happenings on the DCT, which I was leaning towards.
 
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