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Discussion Starter #1
The front axle nut is 22mm. What are folks carrying with them on the bike to remove the nut on the roadside or trail?

I want to get a combo tire lever axle wrench like the Motion Pro T6 or Tusk, but it looks like there may not be enough clearance for it. The fender is very close to the nut, and is a welded post. Does anyone have the combo lever, and is there enough clearance?

I have a 1/2 inch drive 22 mm socket that I use in the garage, but would prefer not to carry it.
 

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I have a new AT and am currently putting together my tool kit. I purchased a combo 27mm/22mm tire lever/axle wrench set and indeed, the front wrench will not fit because of clearance issues. My current plan is to carry the 22mm socket. I am looking at a lockable Givi S250 tool box which will mount inside my Happy Trails pannier bracket on the side opposite the muffler. Between the S250 and a tool belt I should be able to ride with everything I need (including both 18" and 21" spare tubes, CO2 inflation kit, tire irons, a compact jumper battery and an assortment of tools). I prefer not to mount panniers when I am headed out for technical riding and this will let me do that.
 

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The Motion Pro tyre iron / wrench combo work well. I have the 32mm with insert (27/22) and the small 12mm as a pair.
The 12mm works on pinch bolts, the other on both front and rear axle.

You have to understand- you aren’t getting the front wheel off without removing the 4-lower 5mm hex fender bolts. This gives ample room for the motion pro tool on the front axle.

Then, or you don’t mind a small disc scrape, you can rotate the lower sliders enough to get the tyre past the brake calipers. Best if tyre is deflated then no scrape.

Manual says to remove caliper. Makes it easier but not necessary, especially if it’s a roadside flat repair.

If you do remove ONE caliper, use blue loctite when reinstalling. No need for new bolts as specified in manual.
 

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If you get a fender riser kit you shouldn’t have clearance issues for the motion pro tools. It’s about 20£ and useful also if you’re going off-road
 

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Easier and cheaper to remove the two left side lower fender mount screws.
Try removing your front wheel. You either remove one caliper or twist the lower legs to allow the tyre past the calipers.
And to twist the lower legs you have to remove the fender screws.
You quick realize access for the motion pro tyre irons is not an issue if you think ahead.
 

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Motion Pro tools work well - I have the Rugged Roads fender riser, so I didn't even know there was any kind of clearance issue. I use the stepped Motion Pro 12/13 wrench for the pinch bolts (it's a tapered wrench that seems to work better on those bolts).
I also use the axle tool for the other side to help remove the axle without banging away on the threaded side.

 

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Do you guys then use a torque wrench to tighten everything properly once you get home/to a garage or you just tighten the **** out of it and hope it's ok? Because then wouldn't it be more cost effective to just buy a torque wrench and the 27/22 bits and travel around with those while touring?
 

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A torque wrench is far too heavy to be riding with. IMO they are for people who tend to over-tighten. I install my wheels with the tools I carry on the bike, no need for a lot of torque. I will be able to get them off in the field with those tools if I need to.
 

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Do you guys then use a torque wrench to tighten everything properly once you get home/to a garage or you just tighten the **** out of it and hope it's ok? Because then wouldn't it be more cost effective to just buy a torque wrench and the 27/22 bits and travel around with those while touring?
Re & re the front wheel at home. Use your road tools and tighten as you think appropriate, then check with torque wrench so you have an idea if you went too tight. Not a good idea to tighten the sh!t out of the bolts. Easy to strip things.
It's more important to get the fork legs aligned properly so you are not stressing the bushings and seals.
 

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Motion Pro tools work well - I have the Rugged Roads fender riser, so I didn't even know there was any kind of clearance issue. I use the stepped Motion Pro 12/13 wrench for the pinch bolts (it's a tapered wrench that seems to work better on those bolts).
I also use the axle tool for the other side to help remove the axle without banging away on the threaded side.
Just leave the pinch bolts tight when you loosen the axle nut - no need for that fancy Motion-Pro hex tool thingy. Then loosen the pinch bolts and with the axle nut still on but protecting the outer threads bang the axle out with the palm of your hand or a rock or stick... then stick a screwdriver through the cross-hole and pull the axle out.

When tightening the axle, finger tighten the axle nut, then tighten the off-side pinch bolts to clamp the axle, then torque the ale nut. Loosen the off-side pinch bolts, torque the nut side pinch bolts, pump the forks to get things aligned, then finally tighten the off-side pinch bolts.

It's a fast and easy job to remove the front wheel if you also remove the lower fender bolts and pivot the brake callipers out to clear the front tyre as you drag it through.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OP here. So I ended up buying the 22mm Motion Pro combo lever. It just clears the front fender and so will work.

I already had the 27mm Motion Pro combo lever for the rear.

I need to learn the procedure for removing the front wheel. I've done it a million times on my KLR and dirt bikes, but the lower fender and dual front discs on the AT are new to me.
 

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Yep. Fair enough. The axle tool is a nice to have when things are gunked up or stuck together. Otherwise, yes that procedure is pretty much the best way to get things off and back together. There's not much of a weight penalty for carrying another screwdriver as you mentioned or this axle tool. Both will do the trick.

Just leave the pinch bolts tight when you loosen the axle nut - no need for that fancy Motion-Pro hex tool thingy. Then loosen the pinch bolts and with the axle nut still on but protecting the outer threads bang the axle out with the palm of your hand or a rock or stick... then stick a screwdriver through the cross-hole and pull the axle out.

When tightening the axle, finger tighten the axle nut, then tighten the off-side pinch bolts to clamp the axle, then torque the ale nut. Loosen the off-side pinch bolts, torque the nut side pinch bolts, pump the forks to get things aligned, then finally tighten the off-side pinch bolts.

It's a fast and easy job to remove the front wheel if you also remove the lower fender bolts and pivot the brake callipers out to clear the front tyre as you drag it through.
 

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The front axle nut is 22mm. What are folks carrying with them on the bike to remove the nut on the roadside or trail?

I want to get a combo tire lever axle wrench like the Motion Pro T6 or Tusk, but it looks like there may not be enough clearance for it. The fender is very close to the nut, and is a welded post. Does anyone have the combo lever, and is there enough clearance?

I have a 1/2 inch drive 22 mm socket that I use in the garage, but would prefer not to carry it.
I have a DRC tire spoon/axle wrench for that application, it works with no clearance issues. Now, it is steel, and heavier, but fact is a steel spoon is better than an aluminum one any day, the co-efficient of aluminum sucks when changing or repairing tires, and the polished DRC slides nicely.
And if you're on the trail, spit makes it even slicker! :)
 
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