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Discussion Starter #1
Traction control is one of those amazing technologies that is difficult to completely appreciate because it only comes into play in extraneous cases.
Offroad this is less so, but on road it is very much the case.

My question is about the 2017AT Traction control.
I believe that from 2018 and on the traction control on the AT's changed since the ride by wire change.
I rode one of these bikes off road and tested the traction control and found it worked completely differently that on my bike. It dialed back the power in a smooth almost fake de-throttle way.

On my bike, the traction control makes the engine "splutter" by cutting ignition (as I understand it) and thus cutting power when rear wheel slip is detected by the system.

Now to my case.
I have an intersection I regularly go through near my home. I cross a busy road and then have to go over a slightly raised pedestrian crossing right after the intersection.
I am usually gassing it at this point and on dry warm days, I overdo it to hear that engine growl a bit.
The pedestrian crossing is only about 3m (9ft) wide, and I am easily doing 30-40kph (25-30mph) in 2nd with the throttle pretty generously applied as I go over. This is plenty enough to get the rear wheel to slip.
So the classic splutter starts, but I noticed that if I do not let off, the splutter continues afterwards till I let the throttle go. Even when I am back on the road and am not expecting the power input is enough to keep the back wheel losing traction.

I have tried with various levels of deceleration once the traction control kicks in but it seems I have to reverse blip the throttle to cancel out the traction control effect.

caveats:
  • I am doing this with level 3 (full) traction control.
  • Since I am dramatically accelerating in these improv tests, I cannot keep gassing it. The road only has a 50kpm limit!
Now I do not want people to think the system is terrible.
I have learnt how to use this off road and it has saved my skin several times.
It works very well on sharp uphills with poor surfaces to get going and keep momentum.
It is the on road effect I am referring to here.

My question is:

Is the traction control system in the 2016-2017 deficient in this regard?
Has anyone else experienced this?
Am I imagining this?

p.s. I love my AT and do not consider this a defect. It is more a curiosity itch I would like to scratch.
 

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Interesting report. I never got my 2017 bike to trigger the TCS once in 24k miles of riding - and I always used max traction control setting (default). Admittedly I was always on tarmac but **** I rode through two winters. I thought my TCS was perhaps malfunctioning. On the same kind of roads and same riding style my 2018 bike has used the TCS 3 times. I found that it was stuttery - a bit like hitting a rev limiter so not smooth like your experience.
I have put it down to different tyres - the first bike had Dunlops which lasted only about 8-9k miles the second bike had Battlax which I changed at 8k miles and they looked like they would have easily gone to 10k. I went back to the dunlop trailsmarts, and haven't had a TCS occurrence since (another 2k miles).
Having said that - there may be another factor at work. I drive the 2018 bike in engine mode 1 which is noticeably better at feeding in the juice more quickly - this could explain the TCS cutting in.
Edit: In answer to your question - on the 2018 bike when the TCS cut in it cut itself out again without me doing anything with the throttle. Can't help with the 2017 bike 'cos it never happened.
Mike
 

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Try setting 2 or even 1. On my '17 DCT traction control is so sensitive on setting 3. If I try to get off the line quickly it cuts in and kills it before the front tire gets close to coming off the ground it seems. Like the front forks stretch out and TC kicks in. Level 2 is not as bad but still does it. Level 1 seems willing to let me have some fun off the line.
To me there is a big jump in sensitivity between TC settings 1 and 2. While the difference between TC 2 and 3 are not that far apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Try setting 2 or even 1. On my '17 DCT traction control is so sensitive on setting 3. If I try to get off the line quickly it cuts in and kills it before the front tire gets close to coming off the ground it seems. Like the front forks stretch out and TC kicks in. Level 2 is not as bad but still does it. Level 1 seems willing to let me have some fun off the line.
To me there is a big jump in sensitivity between TC settings 1 and 2. While the difference between TC 2 and 3 are not that far apart.
But does TC cut out once the bike pics up speed (and traction) without deceleration?
 

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Once I got into a couple of pucker situations when the **** thing completely dropped power when I was trying to squirt across a road with oncoming traffic, I started turning it completely off before starting out. I rode all these years without it, my hand knows what to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Once I got into a couple of pucker situations when the **** thing completely dropped power when I was trying to squirt across a road with oncoming traffic, I started turning it completely off before starting out. I rode all these years without it, my hand knows what to do.
That would suck!
But what a hassle to switch it off every time
 

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You just hold the trigger for a second instead of blipping it. Do it anytime the throttle is closed. I just do it before I drop it into gear.
 

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But does TC cut out once the bike pics up speed (and traction) without deceleration?
I can't really say for sure. Instinctively, I always seem to chop the throttle when it happens.

Aggravating when your trying to take off, and it could be dangerous like others have said.
 

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This is all on a manual 2017 AT like yours:



I have not noticed that throttle roll off is needed to get out of the TCS "sputter" mode.


I did notice the other day that hitting set and the TCS trigger at the same time turns the whole system off (e.g. level "0").


I do recommend that you simply take it down to level 2 for this turn.


Some reviewers have complained that the AT's do not "save state" (remember their last settings such as TCS ) but this may have changed with later models.
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I did notice the other day that hitting set and the TCS trigger at the same time turns the whole system off (e.g. level "0").
Bob
Interesting. Will try this out next time Im on the bike.

I do recommend that you simply take it down to level 2 for this turn.
Bob
Thanks for the suggesetion, but this is not really the question of my post.

Some reviewers have complained that the AT's do not "save state" (remember their last settings such as TCS ) but this may have changed with later models.
Bob
Yes this is a rather annoying state of affairs on the earlier models. When riding off road, resetting TCS to off and the ABS to off each time is a pain.
The user defined profiles I think are the ideal solution as long as the bike starts up in them by default. This is the best solution, and to the best of my knowledge, the later AT's have it like this.

Still hoping to hear from someone who has experienced this themselves. Maybe it is just a defect in my bike, or my imagination!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I can't really say for sure. Instinctively, I always seem to chop the throttle when it happens.

Aggravating when your trying to take off, and it could be dangerous like others have said.
Yeah this is the essence of the matter.
Once we get the splutter, we throttle off by default. Instinctively as you said.
On this one location which I ride over very often I have resisted throttling off because the road is clear ahead and I know it well, but seems the splutter keeps going till I blip down.

So far seems nobody has noticed or experienced this.
Starting to feel like my imagination playing tricks with me. :|
 

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Interesting report. I never got my 2017 bike to trigger the TCS once in 24k miles of riding - and I always used max traction control setting (default). Admittedly I was always on tarmac but **** I rode through two winters. I thought my TCS was perhaps malfunctioning. On the same kind of roads and same riding style my 2018 bike has used the TCS 3 times. I found that it was stuttery - a bit like hitting a rev limiter so not smooth like your experience.
I have put it down to different tyres - the first bike had Dunlops which lasted only about 8-9k miles the second bike had Battlax which I changed at 8k miles and they looked like they would have easily gone to 10k. I went back to the dunlop trailsmarts, and haven't had a TCS occurrence since (another 2k miles).
Having said that - there may be another factor at work. I drive the 2018 bike in engine mode 1 which is noticeably better at feeding in the juice more quickly - this could explain the TCS cutting in.
Edit: In answer to your question - on the 2018 bike when the TCS cut in it cut itself out again without me doing anything with the throttle. Can't help with the 2017 bike 'cos it never happened.
Mike
Just an update on this - my current bike is fitted with the Dunlop Trailsmart Max which has now been discontinued. Anyway they have done 8k miles and seem to have about another 3k left in them (which is better than the previous OEM Trailsmarts). AND in those 8k miles I have not had a single occurrence of the TC kicking in. Unfortunately it looks like I am going to have to put Battlaxes on now, as the Dunlops have been discontinued and the new ones don't seem to be available in tubed versions. My limited experience with the Battlaxes would seem to indicate less grip :(
Mike
Mike
 

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Now I'm really disappointed.
I really wanted to fit those Dunlop's next they have such a good review over other brands .
There are some still available via eBay .
 

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Mixed views on this. some manufacturers say don't do it because the tyre/tube will overheat. And they all say the speed rating needs to be dropped by one (not that that would bother me).
Mike
I should have waited 10 minutes as emails from both Pirelli and Dunlop have come in saying it's OK to use their tubeless tyres on tubed rims with tubes.
Mike
 
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