Did you just apply over the spoke heads and thats it??I've just went tubeless too. After fannying about with M3 tape and and 5200 marine grade sealant for over a week and being unable to get a decent result, I scraped it all off and went with my original plan. A tube of Upol Tiger seal for £8.50 from Eurocarparts. Man, that stuff sticks like sh1t to a blanket. Lol.
Yes , that's it, remember to clean the area first though with something like turps, petrol or panel wipe and let it dry. Tiger seal is a polyurethane adhesive / sealer, similar to the stuff bartubeless use. Once it sets it ain't coming off without a Stanley knife or angle grinder. :grin2:Did you just apply over the spoke heads and thats it??
That looks great and how did you also do the valve and what miles have you done using this method?Yes , that's it, remember to clean the area first though with something like turps, petrol or panel wipe and let it dry. Tiger seal is a polyurethane adhesive / sealer, similar to the stuff bartubeless use. Once it sets it ain't coming off without a Stanley knife or angle grinder. :grin2:
Just bought 8mm tubeless valves for a couple of quid from eBay. They fit from the inside and you tighten a lock nut down on the valve stem on the outside. I've also ordered a tyre pressure monitoring system just to keep an eye on the pressures.That looks great and how did you also do the valve and what miles have you done using this method?
You spotted the problem that most ignore in these discussions.I'm also new to this game of using tubeless tires on spoked/tubed rims. I've read accounts from several members that have fitted tubeless tires on their spoked rims using either the Outex tubeless system or the 3M tape and marine grade sealant with good results. There are even videos from reputable individuals telling us how it's done.
I'm wondering, though, what holds the tire bead to the rim if there is no tube in there and what allows the bead to seat in a rim not designed for such a tire? According to PTwin, there are dedicated rims for this task (such as the wheels mentioned above on this page), but in the case where the user just uses the wheels that came with the bike (e.g. Africa Twin OEM), what keeps the bead seated and stuck to the outside of the rim? Just air pressure? What am I missing here?
If your goal in your tubeless conversion is slower deflation upon puncture, that's great.Here is the point you need to consider: People tell you that the extra hump on the tubeless rims (and the rear AT rim) will retain the tire bead in the event of a flat. And that’s all well and good.
But tell me this: what retains a tube type tire on the ridgeless rim (for safety sake) when you get a flat? Because evidence shows that tubes get flats more often than tubeless does, and when a tube gets a flat it typically loses air faster than a tubeless puncture. So, what prevents a tube type tire from coming off the rim catastrophically?
The clear answer is, nothing. And if nothing i# keeping it on there with a vulnerable tube inside, why be concerned that nothing is keeping the tubeless tire bead seated. You are no worse off fir it, and maybe better off since tubeless punctures tend to be slower deflating.
This is basically what I did. Full tubeless conversion using the 3M tape and silicone on the back. I also put the tape and silicone on the front, to block the air holes in the spokes, but I still run a tube in there. The front tube has an inner nut and an outer nut. I put some silicone under the outer nut and a bit in the valve gap so even if the front does puncture it will be very slow, or a slow as a tubless in any case. If it's a screw that is bedded into the tire well, I might not even notice. For that reason I have a SPY TPMS to keep an eye on things. An O ring might also work but with time and the weather might deteriorate quicker than silicone, especially if it is getting squished. I've seen online in the US some "push in" valves, that you can push into the rim from the outside. Might get one when I can so that even if the tube valve fails, I can maybe plus, re-inflate, and get home at least.In this case would it be possible to seal the wheels with tape or silicon and still use the tube so in case of puncture the tyre doesn't deflate quick and allows you to control the bike or even ride back home. But what about the valve of the tube? how do you seal that through the hole in the wheel? An O-ring and a tight nut on the outside?