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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got my AT - DCT new at the end of May this year and am now just coming up to 3500 miles on tarmac. about 400 miles ago I was just dismounting after a ride having arrived home to find the rear tyre flat - luckily it must have only just happened. I am not equipped at home to deal with this so my local bike shop collected and replaced the tube. There was no puncture, nothing whatsoever in the tyre, the tube had given way having a small split in the inner surface around the seating where the valve enters the tube. The wheel and tyre was examined carefully, rim tape all ok, no protrusions - so just assumed bad luck and the tube (OEM one) had decided to fail.

However, 300 ish miles more and exactly the same happens again to the new tube - split in tube around valve seating - this time about an inch long.

This is now worrying - in over 50+ years biking (mostly on tubeless) I can pretty much count punctures on one hand - now two blown tubes in 3 weeks. Again careful examination - no wheel obvious or tyre problem.

So now I am on the 3rd tube - confidence in tubed tyres somewhat deflated (sorry!!) Bike Mech suggests one possibility could be - and only could be - tyre creep around the rim starting to literally pull the tube apart around the valve. So now I am riding like my grandad with chalk marks on the tyre corresponding to the valve position with frequent stops to see if there is any creep.

My riding is roads only - thus far - mixed roads, I am not a scratcher - might give it the odd little spanking now and again as it jumps to it and sounds great! - but my hooligan days are behind me.

Do I have a dicky tyre which after 3000 miles wear is now moving a little on the rim ?? - I simply do not know - does anyone have any thoughts ? ideas ? similar experiences?

If it turns out I do have creep I will have a word with Mr Honda as well as trying a new tyre first off.

Obviously though this has me thinking tubeless - but not cheap.

Of course it might just be bad luck and coincidence - but 2 new(ish) tubes in the same way/place does get me thinking.
John
 

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Loosen the valve stem nut on outside of the rim and spin the nut back until it is tight to the valve cap. Then keep an eye on the valve stem - if the tyre is slipping on the rim then the valve stem will start to angle off centre.

You should have inside the rim on the valve stem a concave washer and one nut finger tight.

I never tighten the outer nut, especially when dropping tyre pressures a bit for better traction on single track or forest service roads. I'd rather the valve stem angle off a bit than tear out of the tube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Black - yes I actually saw that on a Moto Cross site earlier today when researching this and I loosened it off a little - but not as much as you suggest - so I will try that too.
J
 

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Earlier this summer I had the front go instantly flat while traveling about 70 mph, I saw my life flash before my eyes that day, the only thing that I found was the tube was torn at the valve stem. I think that the tires do creep if the pressure gets low. I installed a cheap tire pressure monitoring system that works with my phone and I haven't lowered my tire pressure for off road riding since that time, I found a pressure that works well all the time and I keep it there
 

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Chris Birch (ya that guy) on our ADV course said he never installs the outside nut on the stem. He also files out the valve stem hole to oval on his Enduro race bikes.

Said he once had the tyre spin and the valve stem was pulled inside the rim. Didn't go flat, finished the race, but had to drill a hole in the sidewall to flatten the tyre so he could change it.

The cheap indicator is to back off the outer valve stem nut then keep an eye on it - if the stem is at an angle you need to deflate and fix it.
 
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