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Discussion Starter #1
If you have a 2018+ AT, the battery is Lithium ION and using a traditional battery charger will ruin it beyond recoverability.

At my dealer (cheapest price I've found) the OEM battery is about CAD$570 (USD$430), I've spent hours searching the interwebs and didn't find any equivalent battery that was small enough for the 2018+ battery compartment. If you successfully replaced the battery with something else that works (PLEASE ONLY POST IF YOU HAVE A 2018+), let us know!

These lithium batteries should usually lose about 1% of charge per month, so if you're winterizing it for 2-3 months, you shoudn't even have to to put it on a charger.

Also jump starting it using a car or similar battery can also damage the Lithium Ion battery.

The only safe way without a charger would be to bump start it (you put it in 3-4 gear, run, jump on the bike and let go the clutch).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
We have something in the motor trade called RTFH ………………………. Read The F#cking handbook.
I've owned over 20 bikes and I'm used to winterizing vehicles up north. I don't know anyone who reads the entire handbook before riding (and if you do, good for you). They put warning stickers on the bike for just about everything but that. Some dealers will tell you about it when they sell you the bike others won't.

Thats why I shared the warning, to avoid other customers having to buy another 5-600$ battery...

I sold a windshield to another rider yesterday and he also put his battery on a traditional battery charger not knowing. My dealer said they've already replaced countless batteries because of this.

So if you don't appreciate me trying to avoid the costs for other riders, just find another thread instead of being an a**hole about it. Thank you.
 

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hilarious

Keeps me in a living when idiots don't read handbooks and manuals before carrying out maintenance and repairs.

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I'm offering advise to read the handbook before carrying out any maintenance before you break something that costs you money or your life.

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Many people have been charging batteries for decades...why would they think of reading the manual to make sure battery is any different than the last 50 bikes they recharged?

Seriously guys, grow up. I posted to avoid this happening to others, obviously it couldnt have happened to you, because you always read the handbook before turning a bolt, but after decades, some will tend to expect some things remain unchanged over the years. I'm sure you read the handbook before adjusting the chain, yeah whatever...

You'd think forums would be a place where other riders could appreciate learning from other peoples mistakes, but instead there's a lot of know-it-all that prefer judging and acting like they are superior beings. Very impressive.
 

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I've owned over 20 bikes and I'm used to winterizing vehicles up north. I don't know anyone who reads the entire handbook before riding (and if you do, good for you). They put warning stickers on the bike for just about everything but that. Some dealers will tell you about it when they sell you the bike others won't.

Thats why I shared the warning, to avoid other customers having to buy another 5-600$ battery...

I sold a windshield to another rider yesterday and he also put his battery on a traditional battery charger not knowing. My dealer said they've already replaced countless batteries because of this.

So if you don't appreciate me trying to avoid the costs for other riders, just find another thread instead of being an a**hole about it. Thank you.
I've learned to ignore useless posts that don't add to thread discussions.
Too many trolls and non-productive A-holes on the interwebs these days.
FYI
Despite what the Owners Manual and Service Bulleltin tell you;
It is fine to use traditional chargers on Lithium batteries if you make sure they are not in "de-sulfating" mode. The internal BMS will sort it out.
You have to monitor the charging voltage carefully and disconnect at max threshold. It is also recommended not to "trickle charge" them.
It is not necessary and defeats one of the main advantages unless you have excessive phantom draw.
Also, charging a Li-Ion battery that went flat vs. maintenance/storage charge is different.
I'd recommend using the recommended charger in the first instance and do the latter only when you are close to monitor the voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've learned to ignore useless posts that don't add to thread discussions.
Too many trolls and non-productive A-holes on the interwebs these days.
FYI
Despite what the Owners Manual and Service Bulleltin tell you;
It is fine to use traditional chargers on Lithium batteries if you make sure they are not in "de-sulfating" mode. The internal BMS will sort it out.
You have to monitor the charging voltage carefully and disconnect at max threshold. It is also recommended not to "trickle charge" them.
It is not necessary and defeats one of the main advantages unless you have excessive phantom draw.
Also, charging a Li-Ion battery that went flat vs. maintenance/storage charge is different.
I'd recommend using the recommended charger in the first instance and do the latter only when you are close to monitor the voltage.
True, and to avoid any issues (and considering the cost of these batteries), I'd just completely avoid any charger/tender that doesn't specifically say Lithium Ion compatible on it. These batteries should not require any recharge unless winterized for 6 months+. I bought a Lithium charger for about 40$, just not worth the risk of trying traditional chargers/tenders (some could work, some won't).
 

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If you have a 2018+ AT, the battery is Lithium ION and using a traditional battery charger will ruin it beyond recoverability.

At my dealer (cheapest price I've found) the OEM battery is about CAD$570 (USD$430), I've spent hours searching the interwebs and didn't find any equivalent battery that was small enough for the 2018+ battery compartment. If you successfully replaced the battery with something else that works (PLEASE ONLY POST IF YOU HAVE A 2018+), let us know!

These lithium batteries should usually lose about 1% of charge per month, so if you're winterizing it for 2-3 months, you shoudn't even have to to put it on a charger.

Also jump starting it using a car or similar battery can also damage the Lithium Ion battery.

The only safe way without a charger would be to bump start it (you put it in 3-4 gear, run, jump on the bike and let go the clutch).
Good to know. I have a 17 AT DCT and replaced the battery last year after a cell went out in the original. I replaced with an aftermarket, but considered going lithium. I'm glad I didn't now. I'll certainly have to consider this when I upgrade to the 2020. The DCT is amazing, but a flat battery pretty much leaves you stranded. Thanks for the info.
 

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The only safe way without a charger would be to bump start it (you put it in 3-4 gear, run, jump on the bike and let go the clutch).
You should be able to safely jump a Lithium Ion battery from another motorcycle battery or a Lithium Ion jump pack, though I can't say I have personally tried. But EarthX says of their Lithium-Ion batteries...

"It is perfectly fine to jump start the EarthX battery from another motorcycle sized battery or use a jump pack."
 

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You should be able to safely jump a Lithium Ion battery from another motorcycle battery or a Lithium Ion jump pack, though I can't say I have personally tried. But EarthX says of their Lithium-Ion batteries...

"It is perfectly fine to jump start the EarthX battery from another motorcycle sized battery or use a jump pack."
I wish there was some youtube guy doing that but I couldn't find it.
There is nothing wrong with Lithium on AT until everything goes wrong :)
For what it's worth, I've run a Shorai in my 2016 instead of the AGM and it was fine for a few months off the bike and no charge or trickle tenders were needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
In the 2019 manual it says:
"NOTICE: Do not jump-start, as this can damage your motorcycle's electrical system and battery. Bump starting is not recommended."
 

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I wish there was some youtube guy doing that but I couldn't find it.
There is nothing wrong with Lithium on AT until everything goes wrong :)
For what it's worth, I've run a Shorai in my 2016 instead of the AGM and it was fine for a few months off the bike and no charge or trickle tenders were needed.
EarthX does sell a nice little quick-connect cable that plugs into their jump pack.

quick-connect-to-a-jump-pack.png


and Motorcycle.com has a little information here on the proper procedures for doing it...

 

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Nothing new ....
Also no jump start if you have an oem honda LI IO , cause the fuse inside can pop and replace it is not an easy operation (you have to take apart the battery body result in broke the plastic)
 

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Nothing new ....
Also no jump start if you have an oem honda LI IO , cause the fuse inside can pop and replace it is not an easy operation (you have to take apart the battery body result in broke the plastic)
Can you elaborate on this? I was planning to buy a booster (Noco GB20) for a long trip just in case the battery has any problem. Could it be used to "jump start" the bike safely? TIA
(I have an OEM Lion battery on my 2018 DCT).
 

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EarthX does sell a nice little quick-connect cable that plugs into their jump pack.

View attachment 53263

and Motorcycle.com has a little information here on the proper procedures for doing it...

Race teams do this by using a booster battery system to start the bike
, which allows them to use an extremely small battery on the bike for when the engine is running.
 

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Nothing new ....
Also no jump start if you have an oem honda LI IO , cause the fuse inside can pop and replace it is not an easy operation (you have to take apart the battery body result in broke the plastic)
the fuse inside can pop
not an easy operation (you have to take apart the battery body result in broke the plastic
 
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