Honda Africa Twin Forum banner
1081 - 1100 of 1131 Posts

·
Keeping’em Moderatorated
2018 Adventure Sports DCT
Joined
·
3,256 Posts
Hello from Japan.
This is a replacement for my previous TPMS, which was three years old and lost in the woods due to corrosion of the mounting bracket head.
This time, the model is the same inside, but with a different case and bracket. It comes with two types of brackets, one that can be attached to a bar and one that is action cam compatible.

View attachment 66597 View attachment 66598 View attachment 66599

The slim bracket was included in the package, but I had trouble finding a place to install it!
Since the chassis was a little larger, it was cramped in its original position and we decided to change the mounting location to the cowl reinforcement member, but the mounting bracket was not designed to mount on the vertical axis, so we ended up modifying it ourselves.

View attachment 66601 View attachment 66602

gooday
Hi Tet,
Just curious, who’s that TPMS made by, it looks like a nice compact system..
 
  • Like
Reactions: TETSUHIRO

·
Premium Member
2018 Africatwin adventure sports. There is no special customization.
Joined
·
132 Posts
Hi Tet,
Just curious, who’s that TPMS made by, it looks like a nice compact system..
Hello AT-Dragon!

The model I purchased is called M3-B. The name of the manufacturer is unknown.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design


The model I had on before was the same model with a different case.
Automotive lighting Lighting Automotive mirror Motor vehicle Automotive tire
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
That seller also sells the model I have: 41.09US $ 16% OFF|M3 Waterproof Motorcycle Real Time Tire Pressure Monitoring System TPMS Wireless LCD Display Internal or External TH/WI Sensors|tire pressure monitor|motorcycle tire pressuretpms system - AliExpress
You can see on the pictures the 1/4" thread and the cheap junk bracket they supply with it. But I've had mine for almost 2.5 years and it is still working well. I've only replaced the sensor batteries once and I've charged the display unit a few times.

They look like they might be the same brand, just a different style of display unit. The sensors could easily be exactly the same.
 

·
Registered
2016 Honda CRF 1000L Manual
Joined
·
747 Posts
Well, after 18,590 miles indicated with some hard core off road riding it was time to change the drive chain and the front sprocket. It took about 2.5 hrs and was involved, but not complicated. The old chain had started to make some crunching noises during 1st-gear take offs and accelerations, indicating it was chewing itself up internally. Time to go.

I did not replace the rear sprocket because it only has 5,300 miles on it and is still in good shape although it is beginning to show some wear.

Bicycle Automotive tire Crankset Light Wheel


I started by ordering the necessary parts. The chain, a 124-link DID 525 VX3, was ordered from Sprocket Center with a rivet-type master link for $139.50 delivered. The drive sprocket was a 16T OEM replacement from Revzilla for $41.89, Honda Part # 23801-MEE-D00. Total cash expended was $181.39.

I should note here that this VX3 chain appears to be more robust than the HV3 the bike came with originally. For example, the pins on the VX3 are larger diameter (0.217 in) than those on the HV3. It has a published tensile strength of 5 tons!

Font Rectangle Electric blue Fashion accessory Auto part
Ready to go on the bike.

Once both had arrived, I started: I unbolted the lower shift lever and moved it out of the way so I could get to the aftermarket sprocket cover for removal. Here's what the area looked like with the cover removed:

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Vehicle door


Automotive tire Gear Bicycle chain Bicycle part Wood


The area was filled with caked-on crud that I used a Grunge Brush and some judiciously applied brake cleaner to knock off. I now loosened the rear axle and reduced the tension bolts to put slack into the chain. I then put the bike in first gear and took it from the centerstand to the kickstand so the rear tire was on the ground. This allowed me to break the bolt holding the drive sprocket at about 60 ft-lbf. This bolt is a standard right-hand thread. I was interested to note that there was ZERO play in this sprocket around the countershaft either in rotation or left-right play. The tolerances were what you would expect from a quality build.

The sprocket now slid off the countershaft without a fight. Comparing the old with the new, it's easy to see the time had come to replace it. In the pic below, the old is on the right and the direction of rotation is anti-clockwise. Notice the thining, stretching and shape of the teeth compared to the replacement.

Art Circle Gear Electric blue Pattern


There was evidence of rust in the splines of both the sprocket and the countershaft:

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive exterior


I put a thin coating of moly grease on both mating parts and installed the new sprocket. I lightly tightened the locking bolt to hold the sprocket in place. Now for the chain.

I broke the old chain using a Motion Pro PBR tool. This thing is built like a tank. It had NO problem digesting this old chain. Just follow the included instructions. I've read where some users have complained that the silver knock out pin has broken trying to push a link pin out. I could only see this occur if the user did not have everything lined up precisely. This thing made short & easy work of this job.

Blue Light Circuit component Gas Electric blue


With the new sprocket and chain on the bike it was necessary to press the master link into place before riveting it with the MP tool. Lubricate the o-rings, install them and press on the master link plate then reconfigure the MP tool for riveting. The round head in the picture above was used to expand the dimples on the master link provided. Riveting these two pins took some serious torque. I stopped a couple of times and removed the tool to check the expansion with a mic. Then tension the chain to spec and torque the sprocket bolt to 40 ft-lbf with a dab of blue Locktite. Once in place I could stand back to admire the work:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive lighting Gas


Tire Wheel Crankset Bicycle Bicycle tire


And since Ol' Red was cooperative throughout the whole affair, I rewarded her with another piece of red bling, an anodized aluminum sprocket cover from MMG Parts in Japan.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Hood Automotive lighting


A quick test ride saw no noise coming from the new chain. This was a definite improvement over the condition the old chain had gotten to.

So we're ready to go for the next 18,000 miles. Wish us luck!
 

·
Premium Member
2018 Africatwin adventure sports. There is no special customization.
Joined
·
132 Posts
Well, after 18,590 miles with some hard core off road riding it was time to change the drive chain and the front sprocket. It took about 2.5 hrs and was involved, but not complicated. The old chain had started to make some crunching noises during 1st-gear take offs and accelerations, indicating it was chewing itself up internally. Time to go.

I did not replace the rear sprocket because it only has 5,300 miles on it and is still in good shape although it is beginning to show some wear.

I started by ordering the necessary parts. The chain, a 124-link DID 525 VX3 was ordered from Sprocket Center with a rivet-type master link for $139.50 delivered. The drive sprocket was a 16T OEM replacement from Revzilla for $41.89, Honda Part # 23801-MEE-D00. Total cash expended was $181.39.

View attachment 66642 Ready to go on the bike.

Once both had arrived, I started: I unbolted the lower shift lever and moved it out of the way so I could get to the aftermarket sprocket cover for removal. Here's what the area looked like with the cover removed:

View attachment 66643

View attachment 66644

The area was filled with caked-on crud that I used a Grunge Brush and some judiciously applied brake cleaner to knock off. I now loosened the rear axle and reduced the tension bolts to put slack into the chain. I then put the bike in first gear and took it from the centerstand to the kickstand so the rear tire was on the ground. This allowed me to break the bolt holding the drive sprocket at about 60 ft-lbf. This bolt is a standard right-hand thread. I was interested to note that there was ZERO play in this sprocket around the countershaft either in rotation or left-right play. The tolerances were what you would expect from a quality build.

The sprocket now slid off the countershaft without a fight. Comparing the old with the new, it's easy to see the time had come to replace it. In the pic below, the old is on the right and the direction of rotation is anti-clockwise. Notice the thining, stretching and shape of the teeth compared to the replacement.

View attachment 66645

There was evidence of rust in the splines of both the sprocket and the countershaft:

View attachment 66646

I put a thin coating of moly grease on both mating parts and installed the new sprocket. I lightly tightened the locking bolt to hold the sprocket in place. Now for the chain.

I broke the old chain using a Motion Pro PBR tool. This thing is built like a tank. It had NO problem digesting this old chain. Just follow the included instructions. I've read where some users have complained that the silver knock out pin has broken trying to push a link pin out. I could only see this occur if the user did not have everything lined up precisely. This thing made short & easy work of this job.

View attachment 66647

With the new sprocket and chain on the bike it was necessary to press the master link into place before riveting it with the MP tool. Lubricate the o-rings, install them and press on the master link plate then we reconfigure the MP tool for riveting. The round head in the picture above was used to expand the dimples on the master link provided. Riveting these two pins took some serious torque. I stopped a couple of times and removed the tool to check the expansion with a mic. Then tension the chain to spec and torque the sprocket bolt to 40 ft-lbf with a dab of blue Locktite. Once in place I could stand back to admire the work:

View attachment 66648

View attachment 66649

And since Ol' Red was cooperative throughout the whole affair, I rewarded her with another piece of red bling, an anodized aluminum sprocket cover from MMG Parts in Japan.

View attachment 66650

A quick test ride saw no noise coming from the new chain. This was a definite improvement over the condition the old chain had gotten to.

So we're ready to go for the next 18,000 miles. Wish us luck!
Hi!
The red accents look great.:love:
The MMG sprocket cover makes cleaning a breeze.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
Well, after 18,590 miles with some hard core off road riding it was time to change the drive chain and the front sprocket. It took about 2.5 hrs and was involved, but not complicated. The old chain had started to make some crunching noises during 1st-gear take offs and accelerations, indicating it was chewing itself up internally. Time to go.
I did not replace the rear sprocket because it only has 5,300 miles on it and is still in good shape although it is beginning to show some wear.
I started by ordering the necessary parts. The chain, a 124-link DID 525 VX3 was ordered from Sprocket Center with a rivet-type master link for $139.50 delivered. The drive sprocket was a 16T OEM replacement from Revzilla for $41.89, Honda Part # 23801-MEE-D00. Total cash expended was $181.39.
Ready to go on the bike.
Once both had arrived, I started: I unbolted the lower shift lever and moved it out of the way so I could get to the aftermarket sprocket cover for removal. Here's what the area looked like with the cover removed:
The area was filled with caked-on crud that I used a Grunge Brush and some judiciously applied brake cleaner to knock off. I now loosened the rear axle and reduced the tension bolts to put slack into the chain. I then put the bike in first gear and took it from the centerstand to the kickstand so the rear tire was on the ground. This allowed me to break the bolt holding the drive sprocket at about 60 ft-lbf. This bolt is a standard right-hand thread. I was interested to note that there was ZERO play in this sprocket around the countershaft either in rotation or left-right play. The tolerances were what you would expect from a quality build.
The sprocket now slid off the countershaft without a fight. Comparing the old with the new, it's easy to see the time had come to replace it. In the pic below, the old is on the right and the direction of rotation is anti-clockwise. Notice the thining, stretching and shape of the teeth compared to the replacement.
There was evidence of rust in the splines of both the sprocket and the countershaft:
I put a thin coating of moly grease on both mating parts and installed the new sprocket. I lightly tightened the locking bolt to hold the sprocket in place. Now for the chain.
I broke the old chain using a Motion Pro PBR tool. This thing is built like a tank. It had NO problem digesting this old chain. Just follow the included instructions. I've read where some users have complained that the silver knock out pin has broken trying to push a link pin out. I could only see this occur if the user did not have everything lined up precisely. This thing made short & easy work of this job.With the new sprocket and chain on the bike it was necessary to press the master link into place before riveting it with the MP tool. Lubricate the o-rings, install them and press on the master link plate then we reconfigure the MP tool for riveting. The round head in the picture above was used to expand the dimples on the master link provided. Riveting these two pins took some serious torque. I stopped a couple of times and removed the tool to check the expansion with a mic. Then tension the chain to spec and torque the sprocket bolt to 40 ft-lbf with a dab of blue Locktite. Once in place I could stand back to admire the work:
And since Ol' Red was cooperative throughout the whole affair, I rewarded her with another piece of red bling, an anodized aluminum sprocket cover from MMG Parts in Japan.
A quick test ride saw no noise coming from the new chain. This was a definite improvement over the condition the old chain had gotten to.
So we're ready to go for the next 18,000 miles. Wish us luck!
Hey WeeWilly, Do you have a link for that sprocket cover?. Ive noticed your red bling in the passed (y) (y) nice
 
  • Like
Reactions: WTFMAN

·
Registered
2016 Honda CRF 1000L Manual
Joined
·
747 Posts
Hey WeeWilly, Do you have a link for that sprocket cover?. Ive noticed your red bling in the passed (y) (y) nice
Here you go Sled

Rectangle Font Circle Event Brand


Cost to me delivered was $81 US. Contact them using the email above.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WTFMAN and Sled

·
Registered
2019 AT DCT, 2017 Duke 690, 2019 Versys 1000 SE LT+
Joined
·
52 Posts
not just today, but I finished my rainy week additions. I bought the bike in the summer and saved up items to install them all at once. Camel risers and dash brace. Oxford heated grips, oem dash power socket. eastern beaver power splitter for the other dash power output. Alt rider full crash bars and bash plate. additional rear turn signals and brake lights. Hand guard bars eastern beaver cs4 with keyed fused power to run the two gps on separate circuits so a fuse issue can't kill both gps. Nice bar bags off of ebay ($10 each) and some fog lights
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Used my Eastern Beaver kit to jumpstart my bike quick. So much quicker than it would have been.

After not being on the battery tender and stored in a new garage for about a month. I was ready to go, press the starter and hear the click, knew right away.

Never had to worry about getting to that battery. You have to get the right PC8 fuse block with the quick connect plus buy the jumpers too

That could have ended my ride right there before it started.
Thanks Eastern Beaver

Edit: DCT of course. I don't want to start a whole discussion on DCT pros and cons. Not being able to have roll starting as a backup sucks.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,220 Posts
Used my Eastern Beaver kit to jumpstart my bike quick. So much quicker than it would have been.

After not being on the battery tender and stored in a new garage for about a month. I was ready to go, press the starter and hear the click, knew right away.

Never had to worry about getting to that battery. You have to get the right PC8 fuse block with the quick connect plus buy the jumpers too

That could have ended my ride right there before it started.
Thanks Eastern Beaver

Edit: DCT of course. I don't want to start a whole discussion on DCT pros and cons. Not being able to have roll starting as a backup sucks.
Must not be deprived of the ride.

It is worse than missing the morning's first cup-o-Joe (most of the time).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
266 Posts
my 2020 ATAS doesn’t have offset bar risers so rotating them won’t work.
I fitted touratech risers which I’m not sure made much difference I need to roll the bars forward as they’re still not right for me
I understand why he did this but I’m short so I added Rox risers and rotated them slightly back. Otherwise I can’t reach the bars when I’m sitting unless I lean forward too much. I don’t ride mine aggressively off-road so I don’t need that stance for more than the occasional obstacle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
What Did I do to my Africa Twin Today ---- I dropped it for the first time.

Last ride of the season, I just got back home and was attempting to get the bike up into the upper shop. (my garage is 2 Storie, built into a hill, so I have double man doors at the back with a ramp to get in). There is a long slope of lawn that I have to ride up, but our weather has been very wet this past few weeks and its very soft, like a roll of carpet on jello. Tried 5 times to get up the slope and back end was snaking around turning the grass to mud instantly, bike lost traction and was spinning a bit, even with TC on (TC light was flashing), it was that soupy. 4th attempt I rolled her back down the slope and set off to try again but my rear wheel was on a slippy tree root (didnt see it) and the back end went left and the bike went down on the right, very slowly, I just couldn't hold it up. I rolled off, the bike shut itself off. I Got the bike back upright fired it back up and eventually got her up the hill and into the shop.

Thankful for my crash bars, although it was a slow tip over and very soft landing anyway.

My 9,000km stock Dunlop Trailmax tires sure didnt help me any, my new bridges tones are still in the box (go on this winter), but they likely wouldn't have been much better anyway.

No visible damage to the bike. Just lot of cleaning off of mud to do, My OCD is in overdrive !!

QUESTION -- I assume there should be no lasting issues from a minor tip over like this , with the bike having shut itself off ?? tip-over-sensor etc ?


Pics just after I built the garage 10 yrs ago, all the dirt around it is now grass

Sky Plant Cloud Door Tree



Pic below is the back doors to the upper shop.

Cloud Sky Plant Building Window
 
  • Like
Reactions: dallas and WTFMAN

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
Yea, I let her down, but let her down easy. LOL
I treated her to a full fall detail and service today. Fresh Oil (Amsoil 10w30 Syn) and filters ( Engine Oil and DCT) etc. She has forgiven me.

My wife laughed out loud when I said I was going back out to the shop to "polish my pipe". She says "oh, your doing that in there now too?".

WTF !

Fuel tank Tire Wheel Automotive lighting Automotive tire
 
  • Like
Reactions: DoubleThumper

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Started to fit some new aux lights. Got one done before it got to dark to carry on.
View attachment 66155 View attachment 66156 View attachment 66157 View attachment 66158 View attachment 66159
Hi mate I just fitted my aux lights but can’t get them
To work

I’ve activated them on the dash using the jumper wire / red connector

when I press FN button it says ‘auto’ or dismiss?

not sure if it’s something to do with that?

is there a way to have them manually turned on?

the instructions say to select ‘on’ or ‘off’ but I don’t have those options

thanks
 
1081 - 1100 of 1131 Posts
Top