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2021 ATAS DCT ES
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207 Posts
Treated it to a couple of gel stickers. Then a quick blast up up to the shops and filled her tank up was going to treat it to the premium fuel but not at £1.65 a litre o_O
 

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Noticed my 18 ATAS with original Eliiy Hy110 Li-ion battery had been a bit sluggish starting the past few times so checked voltage and was only around 12.8V which is low for this battery (FSM 13.5V - 14.0V fully charged). It's always been around 13.5V in the past and so wanted to charge and decided to purchase an Optimate Lithium 4S 5A TM-291 charger since it is the Honda recommended charger and also recommended by many of the other OE and aftermarket lithium battery makers.

Being lithium specific with several features like BMS (battery management system) wake-up, ability to restore battery from very low voltage, cell balancing and amperage adjustment for battery size seemed like a good choice for battery management and not risk making worse.

I installed the Optimate charging lead on the battery and decided to trim to the battery cover to give a bit more room for the Optimate and Eastern Beaver PC8 wiring.
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Starting at 12.8V, the Optimate went through it's initial test and proceeded to the charging state, followed by optimize (cell balancing) and entered maintain mode in about 40 minutes. The battery is now at 13.5V which is in spec according to the manual 13.5V - 14.0V fully charged and bike starts and turns over quickly again, success.
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I installed my optimate 1 duo unit during the week and what a pain that battery box is to install anything in it!
Yeah, definitely an afterthought on Honda's part.

They could have just put a wheezy plastic cover over the electrically sensitive area, but elected to "secure it" this way instead. I suppose a better approach out of these two.
 

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Premium Member
2022 CRF1100 ATAS ES DCT
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2,009 Posts
Yeah, definitely an afterthought on Honda's part.

They could have just put a wheezy plastic cover over the electrically sensitive area, but elected to "secure it" this way instead. I suppose a better approach out of these two.
Probably that is because the tools are stored there so clipping on with the added weight it may come adrift. I suppose for the North American contingent that don't get the tools it would have been better clipped.


Talking of which I have just finished fitting a power cable and man this bike has very little in the way of free spaces to even run cables, had to remove bits of plastic and even lift the tank but got it done with only a few grazed knuckles :)

Previously I had it fitted but the cable is short so only reached to beside the preload adjuster and I wanted it more out of waters way so I extended the cable using some H07RNF so that I could route it under the rear seat.

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2018 AT Manual Clutch
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79 Posts
I've like those. What bars are they on? SW-M?
The crash (fall over) bars are Touratech. It all worked out as I wanted. I built some backers out of heavy plastic on the lower end of the bars to help prevent the bags from squishing through the larger opening and hitting the side panels in case of a fall. Seems they will work out well. I also put a single clamp at the top of the bars to "trap" the bags single top strap as that strap had an inclination to creep to the rear due to the slope of the bars.
 

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2022 CRF1100 ATAS ES DCT
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Can you give some details on when the lever is installed on the bike?
Not really sure what you are meaning. It is back on the bike but never took a picture, can do so later if you want.
The reason I did it so that it clears the ADVance handguards. Pic below shows it just touching the handguards with the shield slid up and it was fine as no parking brake light.

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But if you lowered the slide the lever was slightly further back thus operating the parking brake light.

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