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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Is this procedure the solution to cold starts?

I recall regarding this procedure sometime last year but can't find the thread. Tried searching in the service manual via "find" but nothing.

I know the youtuber is trying to use this reset procedure as a fix for the cold start but I doubt that's the solution. I could be wrong though.

Is this truly the fix to cold starts with our ATs? I thought it was the start switch itself. I read a thread saying that's what it was and that Honda will replace it. But if you're out of the warranty period but have an extended warranty via 3rd party will they still cover?

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Btw, what is the lit up red symbol on the gauge cluster? I dont see it on my manual AT nor in the handbook displaying all the symbols on cluster.
 

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I found a thread on this site about the procedure but there must be some rule in place to prevent new users from posting links so I can't let you know where to find it :rolleyes: :confused:

Here is the text from that post:
From user Onetime39

Hey all, I took my 2016 manual AT in to the dealer for the hard starting issue. 1700 miles and was getting harder to start 40-55F weather. Throttle Position Sensor was the problem. The dealer told me this is what Honda told them to do. The fix is simple, turn the key on and wait for the

screen to display the CRF symbol and turn ignition off. Hold down the starter button and throttle open all the way open for 5 seconds and this resets the TPS. This has fixed my hard starting issue and no problems since then.
Also, found another YouTube video but can't post the link, ha ha. Search for video BjjygK2KeG8
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I found a thread on this site about the procedure but there must be some rule in place to prevent new users from posting links so I can't let you know where to find it :rolleyes: :confused:

Here is the text from that post:


Also, found another YouTube video but can't post the link, ha ha. Search for video BjjygK2KeG8
Thank you.

Hmm...first time hearing about this. Thank you. I'll give it a go tomorrow and see if that fixes it.

As for the oil in the catch tube...yeah, I read about that but I think that's the cause because I have zero oil in the tube and my bike still does it.
 

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All I've ever done to resolve the cold start issue with my bike (DCT but shouldn't matter) is to turn on the ignition, wait for the start sequence to finish and the display settle, open and close the throttle fully and then start the bike. Been doing this for a year now and it starts and runs first time every time and doesn't hiccup and stall after a second or so as it did previously.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
All I've ever done to resolve the cold start issue with my bike (DCT but shouldn't matter) is to turn on the ignition, wait for the start sequence to finish and the display settle, open and close the throttle fully and then start the bike. Been doing this for a year now and it starts and runs first time every time and doesn't hiccup and stall after a second or so as it did previously.
I just tried your method (sorta) and it worked. I couldn't remember whether to open/close the throttle before or after the display was settled. So I just open/closed the throttle before the display, and it started right up.

Weird.

Just to double check whether it was a fluke or not, I'll attempt another restart later in the afternoon.:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Okay...so two things regarding:

From user Onetime39

Hey all, I took my 2016 manual AT in to the dealer for the hard starting issue. 1700 miles and was getting harder to start 40-55F weather. Throttle Position Sensor was the problem. The dealer told me this is what Honda told them to do. The fix is simple, turn the key on and wait for the

screen to display the CRF symbol and turn ignition off. Hold down the starter button and throttle open all the way open for 5 seconds and this resets the TPS. This has fixed my hard starting issue and no problems since then.
1) I don't think the US models have the HISS system/indicator in the gauge cluster so that procedure didn't work for me

2) however, I attempted it anyway and the bike didn't fire up in its first attempt

3) I attempted Sundodger's suggestion and same as above

4) I tried my procedure (gave it a couple turns before display) then it fired up on both attempts. Not completely convinced my method works because Sundodger's method may have played a part. To be sure, I'll try my method tomorrow morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, it's confirmed: a few twist of the throttle before display startup and the engine started on its first attempt.

Don't know why but I'm still not convinced this works. LOL I'll give it another go later this afternoon and tomorrow morning.
 

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I am pretty sure it all stems from the starter button/kill switch contacts. Mine was a real problem for a while but if you use the kill switch to turn the bike off the action constantly cleans the contacts. I have pulled mine to bits and used contact cleaner and that works for a while, but operating the switch each time you start and stop the bike makes a big difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am pretty sure it all stems from the starter button/kill switch contacts. Mine was a real problem for a while but if you use the kill switch to turn the bike off the action constantly cleans the contacts. I have pulled mine to bits and used contact cleaner and that works for a while, but operating the switch each time you start and stop the bike makes a big difference.
Maaaaybeee

This youtuber had his starter replaced and still had the cold start issue. Although he had the dealer replace it the 3rd time and haven't had the chance to really test it.

 

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Interesting thread. I had a similar issue as well on my 2017 manual AT but the symptoms degraded to the point where I couldn't start my bike at all. Check to ensure all the battery terminals were tight. Check the battery with a meter and though it was under on volts it was still in spec per the manual. Put the battery on tender and that helps for a day or so then the symptoms returned until the point where I could not start the bike again (at least I was at home before I took off to work). Read on line about the contacts fouling on the kill/run switch. Went to the dealer. They called Honda and Honda warrante'ed the issue. So they replaced the whole right kill/run switch assembly. They also did a load test on the factory battery and determined it was cooked. That Honda did not cover even with the extended warranty. Since then I purchased a voltmeter and installed it on my bike so I can monitor how the battery performs under normal operation. If this arises again I hope I can see some trends before hand. Reached out to a cool guy here on the forum for some pointers on how best to install the voltmeter since I run all my accessories off a PDM60. All good so far!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just now attempted a cold start but first gave 3 full throttle turns before turning on the ignition, pressed start, and bang...started on its first attempt. What the heck is going on here?

I'm still not convinced. LOL This has to be a fluke.

Will attempt a cold start tomorrow morning without any full turns before starting the ignition.
 
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