I use item 1 above - a cheapo auction site tool. Amazingly when this arrived the rod was curved (no kidding). After some playing about with a set square, I have got it set so the curve is upwards so I can use it. I am thinking of getting a laser alignment tool as it will be handier to carry on a trip.I have just ordered a chain alignment gauge (rod type) that should be here in a couple of days.
From what I have learned recently there are several ways to get wheels aligned.
1. Use a mechanical chain alignment tool. Cheap, easy to use. Extend the rod with a straight edge for greater accuracy
2. Use a lazer chain alignment tool. Costs more, is very easy to use and accurate
3. Measure wheel centre to swingarm pivot either side. Exhaust gets in the way.
4. Use a bricklayers line (has a bit of stretch) to check rear wheel alignment with front wheel. Needs a lot of patience to get it right.
5. If you trust the swingarm marks then use them. Start with the chain too slack and wind each side in small increments until marks are the same and tension is right. Doing it this way removes any error due to possible clearance between adjuster block and spindle as the block is hard against the spindle all the time.
I have found that with the ATAS the chain slack on centre stand is 5mm greater than when on side stand. That's as expected as the suspension is at max extension when on centre stand. The handbook says set chain tension on side stand at 45 to 55 mm. So add 5 mm to that when setting up on centre stand.
Yeah I noticed this problem and posted about it here a few months back.Speaking about the rear wheel. On the French forum they found a mistake i the workshop manual.
The collar on the rear wheel axle, left and right, are not the same. The collar on the sprocket site has a shoulder the brake side doesn't. In the workshop manual it's contrary. In the parts catalog it's ok.