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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I apologise if this seems to be a very dumb question but I can t really get along with changing gears on my new AF.

I had a previous V strom 650, which came with a very nice chart as advice when to change gears up and down based on your speed. As a beginner at that time, i found it very useful.

Now on the AF, it seems i can't match the revs/speed when changing gears and there is a lot of chocking with it. Any advice on this, please?

Thank you,
 

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Not a dumb question at all.

So glad you asked this question cuz till this day I too am unsure what the ideal shift point is. I came from 250/600cc sportbikes (mostly track) and I would change gears whenever I reached redline.

Obviously, that's not ideal on the streets so I just went with feel the first 200+ miles. Which later turned out to be close to redline....hahahaha But that's okay because I was still breaking her in. ;)

But I can't wait to hear what others have to say.
 

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Just try slowing down your clutch release and throttle application, if you release one and apply the other to quickly it won't be smooth. It's not a race to get through the box, on the DCT model the bike will shift into 6th by 30mph if in "D" mode with slow smooth throttle application, if you pin it from stop it holds the gears longer before changing up. In sport III mode it'll hold the gear to near red line before change. I think what i'm saying is change when you feel you need to or circumstances require, ( short shift for town, more open throttle for fun time in the twisties ) but make it smooth and you'll soon be sorted.
 

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If you believe the manual, she's got the torque to change early and often. But I can't believe many people actually shift anywhere near the book's recommendations, after 2nd anyway:
2nd at 12 mph
3rd at 19 mph
4th at 25 mph
5th at 31 mph
6th at 37 mph

Early on, I tried to shift near those points just to see how it felt. It feels fine, if a just a *tad* laggy. I never experienced any choking or lagging issues whether rev-matching/ blipping or not.

But I'm probably closer to shifting one phase up after 2nd. I.e., shifting into 2nd around 12 mph is fine, but I shift into 3rd closer to 25 mph and 4th closer to 31, etc. And that's while riding calmly/ easily.

But I also find the bike shifts smoothly and comfortably without bothering to rev-match or blip the throttle (as long as you're above those recommended shift points and I can't believe anyone would be below them, and as long as you're shifting smoothly and quickly). In fact, I probably rev-match maybe 1/4 of the time. It's not something I used to worry about in the old days with my 70s and 80s bikes and it's not something I'm too worried about now. If I do it, it's mostly just for fun and because it sounds pretty cool, esp. downshifting.

I wonder what you mean by "chocking?" Choking? The bike lags?

The bike does want a nice quick, smooth shift. I mentioned my issue with this early on. It doesn't like to be casually and slowly shifted up from gear to gear. This is true. It's one of my little peeves with the bike, but I chalked that up to having more to do with the way most modern bikes work compared to earlier bikes (or big cruisers maybe). I love to shift slowly, to take off slowly and casually - leisurely shift through the gears (like I'm riding a hog in no hurry). But that is a bit difficult on my 2018 Adventure Sports. It can be done, but with effort. Much easier to shift quickly, smoothly. This bike, anyway.

Gary

Quick Edit: The main issue I feel is that once I let off the throttle, the bike begins its *ever-so-fast-and-hard* auto-engine braking. That's why it's so hard to shift slowly, for me anyway. On my older bikes, I could let off the throttle and recite The Lord's Prayer before shifting and throttling up and the bike would just keep coasting along; (I exaggerate, but you take my meaning). Not this bike. Let off that throttle and she begins her *powerful* engine braking right away.



...
 

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Gary, would it help to set “EB” to 1?
I've switched between 1 and 2 and 3 and it's difficult to tell much of a difference. Whichever is supposed to be the weakest (my manual says 3 "has the weakest engine braking effect)," it's still too strong for my tastes. I wouldn't mind engine braking the old fashioned way--by downshifting.

Having said as much, I have gotten used to it and it certainly does come in handy in many instances. But the fact is, on my bike, when you roll off the throttle, she slows down fast.

Thanks, Gary

...
 

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I've switched between 1 and 2 and 3 and it's difficult to tell much of a difference. Whichever is supposed to be the weakest (my manual says 3 "has the weakest engine braking effect)," it's still too strong for my tastes. I wouldn't mind engine braking the old fashioned way--by downshifting.

Having said as much, I have gotten used to it and it certainly does come in handy in many instances. But the fact is, on my bike, when you roll off the throttle, she slows down fast.

Thanks, Gary

...
Sorry, I had it back to front, I meant the weakest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you believe the manual, she's got the torque to change early and often. But I can't believe many people actually shift anywhere near the book's recommendations, after 2nd anyway:
2nd at 12 mph
3rd at 19 mph
4th at 25 mph
5th at 31 mph
6th at 37 mph

Early on, I tried to shift near those points just to see how it felt. It feels fine, if a just a *tad* laggy. I never experienced any choking or lagging issues whether rev-matching/ blipping or not.

But I'm probably closer to shifting one phase up after 2nd. I.e., shifting into 2nd around 12 mph is fine, but I shift into 3rd closer to 25 mph and 4th closer to 31, etc. And that's while riding calmly/ easily.

But I also find the bike shifts smoothly and comfortably without bothering to rev-match or blip the throttle (as long as you're above those recommended shift points and I can't believe anyone would be below them, and as long as you're shifting smoothly and quickly). In fact, I probably rev-match maybe 1/4 of the time. It's not something I used to worry about in the old days with my 70s and 80s bikes and it's not something I'm too worried about now. If I do it, it's mostly just for fun and because it sounds pretty cool, esp. downshifting.

I wonder what you mean by "chocking?" Choking? The bike lags?

The bike does want a nice quick, smooth shift. I mentioned my issue with this early on. It doesn't like to be casually and slowly shifted up from gear to gear. This is true. It's one of my little peeves with the bike, but I chalked that up to having more to do with the way most modern bikes work compared to earlier bikes (or big cruisers maybe). I love to shift slowly, to take off slowly and casually - leisurely shift through the gears (like I'm riding a hog in no hurry). But that is a bit difficult on my 2018 Adventure Sports. It can be done, but with effort. Much easier to shift quickly, smoothly. This bike, anyway.

Gary

Quick Edit: The main issue I feel is that once I let off the throttle, the bike begins its *ever-so-fast-and-hard* auto-engine braking. That's why it's so hard to shift slowly, for me anyway. On my older bikes, I could let off the throttle and recite The Lord's Prayer before shifting and throttling up and the bike would just keep coasting along; (I exaggerate, but you take my meaning). Not this bike. Let off that throttle and she begins her *powerful* engine braking right away.



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Hi GaryH,

thanks for your comprehensive explanation.

i think you are correct. it does like a quick shift through gears. i talked to my mechanic yesterday who suggested the same thing and it is better now.

by choking - probably wrong word choice - i meant that there seems to be some engine braking when releasing the clutch. i have tried to change the gears up at higher rpm, and releasing the clutch slightly faster and it seems to be working.

10x
 

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I read the manual and found the bike is certainly happy shifting by 2.5-3k, but it always feels down on power that way.

So now it depends on my mood.

Is it a 6th by 40mph or an 80 in 3rd sort of day?

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Clutch first to second then clutchless for the rest. Get the timing right with a tiny backing off the throttle for each shift and it's like a knife through butter. Need to be positive with the left boot for it to be seamless though.
 

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In the user manuals of Honda bikes they usually give the suggested shift speeds. They are always low with the aim of trying to save fuel and potentially wear and tear on the gearbox (though they are usually bulletproof).
I had a VFR800 and the 6th gear shift point was about 40mph (60 kph), if I remember correctly, thought the bike could easily do 80 kph in first gear alone.
I find that a reasonable shift point seems to be around 3,500-4,000 rpm in each gear and still get really good fuel economy.
 
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If you pull first you can hit 50mph before putting second :)
 

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Do all ADV bikes (w/1000cc engines) normally have low redlines? Cuz 8K seems WAY TOO LOW. 8K comes up so fast, the next thing I know I'm searching for more gears past 6th. :grin2:

I'm just used to 13,500-15K redlines.
 

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I'm not sure, but I'm only used to seeing sport bikes break 8k. It doesn't surprise me or bother me.

It seems like the higher the rev range the more narrow the usable power range is.

As long as I feel pull and torque more often than not- I'm happy.



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I always try to shift at the correct RPM , if I do that ,it makes for a correct shift. & when you make a correct shift it’s quite a shifting experience
 
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