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Assuming lower "P" and lower "EB" still means "more", on this graphical representation, Honda really got that wrong.

Why would filling in more shaded blue segments mean "less" of something?

But of course, more shaded areas for "T" means more torque control (but be careful, NOT necessarily more torque).
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Assuming lower "P" and lower "EB" still means "more", on this graphical representation, Honda really got that wrong.

Why would filling in more shaded blue segments mean "less" of something?

But of course, more shaded areas for "T" means more torque control (but be careful, NOT necessarily more torque).

I think of it as a measure of electronic intrusion. The lower the number the less filtering by the computers. It is a subtractive equation not an additive one. Edit: scratch that. It is additive, but for computer override not for more of the topic in question....
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I like the convenience of the voltage feedback.
Without voltmeters, I would have killed three previous bikes when issues popped up. But because I watch the fluctuations, I was able to prevent being stranded and take preventative maintenance steps in each case. Non-negotiable accessory for me. I don't like walking in riding boots....
 

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I like the convenience of the voltage feedback.
Yea but it can freak you out too...
Like the other day I moved some wiring so I had the key on and off and on for a while (not running) the short of it; it pulled the battery down, not far, but enough to notice that my running voltage was 13.5v and it stayed there for what seemed forever not going up to the 14.2 that is normal, so now I’m freaking out thinking I have to pull the farings back of and all that crap because I some how got a drain in the system. Lucky I let it run for a bit and slowly it creeped back up to 14.2v
Well actually it took a bit to charge at all, then once it did, it didn’t take to long..
 

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Yea but it can freak you out too...
Like the other day I moved some wiring so I had the key on and off and on for a while (not running) the short of it; it pulled the battery down, not far but enough to notice that my running voltage was 13.5v and it stayed there for what seemed forever not going up to the 14.2 that is normal, so now I’m freaking out thinking I have to pull the farings back of and all that crap because I some how got a drain in the system. Lucky I let it run for a bit and slowly it creeped back up to 14.2v
Well actually it took a bit to charge at all, then once it did, it didn’t take to long..
Too much information?

I'd rather have it available than not - ultimately I believe you agree, especially for those lithium-based batteries.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Plan B. (Gotta love eBay....)




So if the windscreen is up (bike on or off) the compass points true. If the windscreen is down (on or off) the compass has a deviation.

I moved it around the cockpit and found that the front brake reservoir worked (with handlebars straight) but I figured it would be too big a bug target. Everywhere else I tried had too much deviation.
 

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Plan B. (Gotta love eBay....)




So if the windscreen is up (bike on or off) the compass points true. If the windscreen is down (on or off) the compass has a deviation.

I moved it around the cockpit and found that the front brake reservoir worked (with handlebars straight) but I figured it would be too big a bug target. Everywhere else I tried had too much deviation.
Bottom left corner of the helmet face shield?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Oh, and the left hand guard in the last post caught my eye and I thought this might be of interest to the collective....when you are trying to get to something under the plastics, it helps to have this particular wrench in a handy spot.




On my VFR1200X over the last three years I had this tube and 5mm hex wrench on the left hand guard. It is the most common tool needed to pull panels on both the CT and the AT. When I changed bikes, this made the transition.
 
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