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Discussion Starter #1
G'day
This rough guide is for anyone who has a base model bike with the incandescent bulb blinkers (yuk).

I pulled apart my bike to suss out what the diagram for the front & rear. Here is what I found.

Colour coding:
Blue Plugs for left hand side
Orange plugs for right hand (throttle) side
White plug for licence plate light

Front plugs have three wires:
(-) Green for earth/negative
(+) Solid colour (eg blue or orange) for the blinker/flasher circuit.
(+) Colour with white stripe for the DRL circuit (always on).

The globe housings state that they are 21watt globes, which would dictate what you match your resistor to. I'll confirm this later in the week when I install LEDs.

For selection guidence,
The stems are about 5cm from the mount to where the lens starts. Overall length is around 12cm.

See pictures below.
 

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Great work! I wanted to change the US blinkers to the Euro LED.

Ears and eyes waiting for your findings!
 

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G'day
Finished up the project this evening, had a few frustrations caused by mislabeled capacitors (Oxford, grr) but here are the findings...

1) Electrical
18w-21w resistors are needed to maintain the stock flash rate. Alternatively, an LED flash relay could be used. This would be my preference if I started over fresh as its neater, less joins, and less stuffing around.

I tried some of the Oxford 'Honda plugs' and they were subtly different. I cut the stock connectors off with half the wiring, which left heaps of wire. Everyone has a preference for how they join their wiring, I'm a fan of using the right size heatshrink. I hate push plugs and haven't bothered soldering wires in this type of situation for a decade or so.

There's heaps of room in the tail, I made sure nothing is loose as the last thing you want is a rattle in the wiring when riding off road. I now have a spare positive wire at each front indicator. I may use these in the future for DRLs.


2) Mounting
Lots of options, depends on how picky you are. You can use blanking plates trimmed to the right size/shape. You could go with large stem indicators, but they're unlikely to cover the oval hole. And unlikely to be found in LED.

I shaped blanking plates, but didn't like them for two reasons - they looked like an afterthought, and they were too solid. I ended up reusing the rubber/metal stock mounts by placing the metal from the rear into the front. This provided a flat metal surface to mount to, and the rubber will hopefully remove some violence from the LEDs.

I would honestly spend the money for OEM units if I started again. I love playing with wiring and pulling stuff apart in the shed, but although I went with the highest quality units I could find, I'm just not happy with the results. Total cost was about $130 AUD.

Pics will be up tomorrow.
Steve
 
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