Hi,
Use the search function and search for Kaoko, atlas, or cruise control and you’ll find all the info you need. Kaoko seems to be the easiest to install and seems to work very well

 

Alternatively, the palm rest ones that are six bucks are easy, removable, and inexpensive.

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As an ancient (77) I was able to extend my riding years by buying a 2017 Africa Twin (DCT) and fitting McCruise. Wonderful 20k highwaymiles last year, many 400+ mile days.
From Yellowknife, NWT, to Oregon/California coast, to Pensacola, FL, US Rockies etc.

DCT saves any discomfort in left wrist and fingers from clutch action. MCCruise saves my right hand and wrist from always having to hold the grip while riding. No need to keep checking your speed. Holds set speed up the grades. Not upset by DCT gear changes.

I really value the MCCruise solution. Pricey, $900 including shipping from Australia, but worth it for me. It is now cheaper ($600?) for 2019 AT with fly-by-wire throttle.

A Scottoiler saves having to crawl under the bike every evening.

Most of the time, riding with relaxed posture, with one or both hands resting lightly over the grips; often my right hand is off the bars. The AT runs straight without effort. I use knees to grip the tank for frame leverage.

Right hand is too busy with twelve buttons and switches. I count Parking brake, Up-shift, Traction control, Cruise Set, Res, On/off, Headlight hi/low/flash, Display select, Display set, Horn, Turn signals, Down-shift, and finally selector for Koso Apollo heated grips.

Garmin Montana GPS and tire pressure monitor mounted high up, near line of sight. And other comfort/convenience fittings. The Garmin mount is now braced by a small fastener through the screen. Takes the load off the bar below.

 

As an ancient (77) I was able to extend my riding years by buying a 2017 Africa Twin (DCT) and fitting McCruise. Wonderful 20k highwaymiles last year, many 400+ mile days.

From Yellowknife, NWT, to Oregon/California coast, to Pensacola, FL, US Rockies etc.



DCT saves any discomfort in left wrist and fingers from clutch action. MCCruise saves my right hand and wrist from always having to hold the grip while riding. No need to keep checking your speed. Holds set speed up the grades. Not upset by DCT gear changes.



I really value the MCCruise solution. Pricey, $900 including shipping from Australia, but worth it for me. It is now cheaper ($600?) for 2019 AT with fly-by-wire throttle.



A Scottoiler saves having to crawl under the bike every evening.



Most of the time, riding with relaxed posture, with one or both hands resting lightly over the grips; often my right hand is off the bars. The AT runs straight without effort. I use knees to grip the tank for frame leverage.

Right hand is too busy with twelve buttons and switches. I count Parking brake, Up-shift, Traction control, Cruise Set, Res, On/off, Headlight hi/low/flash, Display select, Display set, Horn, Turn signals, Down-shift, and finally selector for Koso Apollo heated grips.

Garmin Montana GPS and tire pressure monitor mounted high up, near line of sight. And other comfort/convenience fittings. The Garmin mount is now braced by a small fastener through the screen. Takes the load off the bar below.

This is a seriously slick setup. Do you know if the MC cruise works with manual trannies?

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I too have McCruise, for 20 kkm'#s now. Great product, wouldn't give away. For money savers, Rostra under 300$ , but requires much more work and skills to install. McCruise is plug and play kit.

 

Yes, the Honda AT MCCruise kit is not specific to the DCT.

It uses a spool to connect the manual throttle setting and MCCruise servo cables to the throttle spindle cable.

The Africa Twin kit plugs into the OEM harness for speed and brake info.

This is a well engineered product with a many page installation manual. Not a trivial install but, just follow the book.

 

The electronic MCC thing is definitely the one to go for if you don't mind the expense and the insurer is OK with it. If not then then I can vouch for the Kaoko manual one (they call it a throttle stabiliser). As well as being able to take your hand off the throttle on stretches of motorway, you can control the bike with a much lighter grip. This takes some practice and you have to keep reminding yourself to do it. And of course your left hand mirrors what your right is doing, so if you are gripping the throttle tight (which is normal) then you also grip the left bar tight too. And vice versa.
One advantage that the Kaoko might have over the electronic one is that on really rough roads you can set the friction on the throttle so that the pumping of the front forks is not causing the throttle to slightly rotate which produces a hiccuppy sort of ride.
Mike

 

Tequila: Works perfectly on my 18 ATAS, but the installation is a bit more of a challenge as you have to take the air-box off to get to the proper connection for the tachometer sensor. I think it has been money well spent.

 

I’ll have to throw in another vote for the MCCruise. It is a bit pricey, but well worth it to me. Took me almost 6 hours to install, the installation material is awesome, with pictures as well as written instruction.
Works as well as the one on my Goldwing!

 

Thanks for your post, it gives me hope to keep riding, I have a cb500x, will the AT be harder to handle due to the extra weight

 

I have just completed 1200 miles in the Scottish Highlands, and I left the cruise control ON all the time.
Mine is the Kaoko and I followed my own advice in the post above and left it on a mild friction setting for the entire time. Wow has that helped relaxed riding!! I'm going to leave it set like this permanently because after a few hundred miles I realised I wasn't gripping the throttle tightly and a pain that usually developed in my left elbow after long rides just wasn't happening.
Mike

 

..... oh yeah and I forgot to mention one other big advantage of riding like this (with the throttle stabiliser permanently set to friction). It's so easy to change between any of the DCT modes. When touring I usually drive in relaxed D-mode but if I want to overtake I like to put it in S2. It's slightly easier to do this on the 18 model rather than the 16 model, but it's so easy if the throttle doesn't move while you change. I think this would be even more relevant if you prefer to change from auto to Manual to overtake as the M button is now where it used to be on the 16 bike - a very long thumb stretch away.
Mike

 

Id give an upvote for the Kaoko. Had one on my 2017AT since new. Any stretch of road with constant speed of more than 1min and I use it.
Seems a little scary to have any kind of device that counteracts the spring loading of your throttle but it takes no time before you would never part with it.
Fantastic and simple device that solves a huge problem for the AT on highways.

 

Back in the 60's Triumphs came with a small screw under the throttle, and you could adjust this to counteract the spring in the throttle body. I think most of us rode around with non-return throttles and I'm not sure whether it caused any extra accidents (of course DCT didn't exist then).
I had an accident about 10 years ago on a Versys that I think was caused by erroneous throttle usage. I grabbed the front brake, probably before pulling the clutch and in that brake grab motion I think my right hand rotated the throttle and spun the back wheel and instantly I was down. The point is that I suspect the same would happen on my DCT Africa Twin, so it wouldn;t matter whether the kaoko throttle stabiliser was on or off (I'd still go down :crying
Mike