Sorry for being vague but I'm an 2018 ATAS who tries to do things I did 40 years ago....? **** even 50!

 

Mostly rust issues, rims, spokes in some cases frame. I think in 2018 spokes went from poor quality nickle plating to stainless. Many 2016 have had their wheels replaced and some had them replaced more than once. With that said, not all Africa Twins are the same. If you find one with 10-15000km or more from that year that doesn't show signs of rust, chances are its a good one (or parts have been replaced with new ones). Even some 2018 models may have rust issues, but a lot of it seems to have been addressed. Just inspect the bike carefully before you buy (as with any used bike).


Other things that sometimes seem to fail prematurely (if the bike looks like it was used offroad a lot, these parts will more likely be need to be replaced):
- Wheel bearings
- Fork seals


The engine is pretty solid, but be aware of the valve check (@ 16000miles / 25600km) which can be quite expensive (like 8 hours of labor). It can cost you anywhere from 500 to 800$ at the dealer.

I've had a 2017 and now have a 2019 (bought both new from the dealer at 2000$ under asking price mid-season), and both have been great bikes and I've had no issues so far.
https://youtu.be/VVckQoJIUfo

 

Mostly rust issues, rims, spokes in some cases frame. I think in 2018 spokes went from poor quality nickle plating to stainless. Many 2016 have had their wheels replaced and some had them replaced more than once. With that said, not all Africa Twins are the same. If you find one with 10-15000km or more from that year that doesn't show signs of rust, chances are its a good one (or parts have been replaced with new ones). Even some 2018 models may have rust issues, but a lot of it seems to have been addressed. Just inspect the bike carefully before you buy (as with any used bike).


Other things that sometimes seem to fail prematurely (if the bike looks like it was used offroad a lot, these parts will more likely be need to be replaced):

• Wheel bearings
• Fork seals

The engine is pretty solid, but be aware of the valve check (@ 16000miles / 25600km) which can be quite expensive (like 8 hours of labor). It can cost you anywhere from 500 to 800$ at the dealer.

I've had a 2017 and now have a 2019 (bought both new from the dealer at 2000$ under asking price mid-season), and both have been great bikes and I've had no issues so far.

I have 2017 bike in same livery - have had zero problems. The front end was too soft for me (plus stiction) so I went with progressive springs - that is it (and is of course optional).

how did you notice stiction?

 

Had a leftover 2016, had all these issues :


- Set switch failure 2x
- Spokes corrosion
- Rear bearings failure 2x
- Screws rusting (live in Switzerland not sea level)


Above all these visual and material issues, I had one of the worst luck with following issues :


- Engine cold start problems
- Engine turning off sometimes for no reason
- Gearbox getting stuck in neutral between 5th and 6th


These latter problems developped after around 30'000 Km, nothing wrong was found from dealership, so it was a nightmare. honestly if I were you I wouldn't gamble so much on a 2016 model, rather get leftover 2018, which were more reliable.

 

2016...first of the first.

Both switch clusters replaced under warranty.

And that’s it. No rust, no failures to date although I’ve only just under 20k miles.

 

Thanks all, this is exactly what I was looking for!

 

I've seen one with 200000km+ on it (most likely a 2016), but yeah if you can it's always better to avoid the 1-2 first years of production. Considering what the 2018 are selling for, I'd probably go with that. I think in 2018 they also changed the air intake and exhaust a bit.

 

As others have said...The main issues that I had were all found to be linked to the switch clusters.
This included dct fault and Headlight problem, once the switches were replaced it was all fine.
Except for the dodgy spoke issues which is well documented.

Ive owned 2016, 2017 and now a 2020(19) model.
You'll save a. bundle on the 2016 model.

 

I have not had a single problem with my 16 standard, might b the warm Tx weather


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Fork seals were not up to the task and failed.
Other than that I haven't had a single issue with mine - rock solid! 50,000 kilometers.

 

2017 Manual 18K miles, 0 issues. I use neoprene fork seal protectors and my spokes are always covered in dirt and grime so I really don't know if they are corroded. I skipped the 16k mile valve check as most people who have done it have only had to maybe adjust a slightly out of spec or near spec exhaust rocker. Mine runs like a top and I love it more every ride.

 

Same here, 2017 manual tricolor 40K miles, no issues to talk about, and I have subjected it to serious abuse off road. I checked the valves only at 29K miles and found them all within spec, have written elsewhere about it.

One issue with the 2016-17 bikes is that the aluminium bracket that holds the right peg can break if one falls to the right off road. Camel Adventures do a reinforcement support which is a must for those who take their bike seriously off road. This issue has been addressed in the 2018 and later bikes.

 

I am shopping around and finding several really great-priced 2016 Africa Twins. Is there anything that I need to shy away from in the 2016? Known issues, mechanical or electrical?

I am looking at 2018+ also but I'm not against buying a used bike if the price is right.

I had 2016 that I eventually traded in on a 2019 ATAS because I wanted the larger tank and like the higher seat primarily. But I put about 28K trouble-free miles on the 2016 before I traded it. Now the 2019, on the other hand, has had the tank issue and they cleaned the tank, replaced the fuel pump and the injectors. Time will tell on that

 

2016 first run serial number is in 300s bullet proof never had a single problem after 30000km

 

I'm the proudly owner of an AT '16, in Mexico, so far, 25,000 kms it's a DCT model, no problems at all. I'm very happy with my AT.

 

Only issue I've had is the cold start. Bothered me at first but holding the throttle a touch open to bounce it on isn't that hard. Dropped to 86octane too per factory recommendation. Cheaper gas recommended feels like a win to me.

Love my bike though - hope you don't regret your decision either way!

 

Read this: https://advrider.com/f/threads/afri...front-fork-failure-current-owners-and-prospective-new-owners-must-read.1253181/

 

 

Congratulations MacNobody on taking delivery.

 

How has the bike been treating you so far MacNobody?

 

It's heavier than the KLRs that I have owned in the past, obviously. Riding it around feels like a lighter bike, but trying to put it on the centerstand (just for practice) is kind of an ordeal. I'm sure I'll figure out the trick to it.

I rode around for about 30 minutes and now I'm back home waiting for my wife to get ready so we can go back out for a spin.

 

I had the same problem with the centrestand. I can't believe that I was doing it wrong when I was sure I was doing what people told me, but just the other day when I was easily flipping it up, reminded me that I had been FAILING to put enough downward pressure on the foot lever attached to the stand, and instead I had been trying to lift the back of the bike with the passenger footpeg. Once I trained my brain to really press with the foot I needed only a light lifting and guiding force with my hand.
Mike

 

I have 2017 bike in same livery - have had zero problems. The front end was too soft for me (plus stiction) so I went with progressive springs - that is it (and is of course optional).

 

And angling the bike slightly away from you

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Heh, heh, ... if I angled my bike away from me, it would end up napping.

 

I'm happy to report that everywhere I stopped today the bike has been on the centerstand. Just because I could.

Thanks all. I realized I wasn't making sure both "feet" were on the ground before pushing down.

 

Awesome MacNo. The AT center-stands are some of the easiest ever.

 

l ride 2016 manual 56k, leaking fork seals only problem, awesome machine

 

So it’s a clear signof something sticky, good to know, thanks