Honda Africa Twin Forum banner
41 - 60 of 140 Posts
Looking at chain oiler next. Installed a Scottoiler V system on the old XRV750, it had trouble with the main reservoir flow valve after 4 years, wouldn't release the oil or found a puddle under the bike. Bought a second set and that worked until I sold the bike.
Now looking for an E System, it's pricey!
I had a Tutoro in the past, and it worked perfect.
Have ordered a new one (is arrived already) and going to install one of these days.
The Tutoro is easy to install and works on vibration and gravity. No hassle!
TUTORO Automatic Motorcycle Chain Oilers
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
Thanks for your comments guys! It's definitely cheaper, even with the shipping from UK (no dealer in continental EU as far as I can see) and people comment on the easy system internals, basically no electronic parts which can go, just vibration driven oiling..
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
Brake lever: very satisfied with the quality of this cheap one. It was a bit wobbly, but tightened the screws a bit more and it's quite sturdy now. Will keep a replacement in the top box just in case ;)
Image


Alternator / DCT covers: the left alternator cover was off by a couple of millimeters, had to be bent just a bit for the bolts to fit the holes. Looks OK, should help protect against scratches a bit.
Image
 
Are the extras worth more than the bike yet? 😂
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Hercules
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Today received the main stand. Looks like a good quality product, I'll update after install, hopefully tomorrow.

Also ordered:
Aluminium top case (SW Motech Trax knock-off), Tutoro chain oiler, Heed crash bars top+bottom.
Small bits and pieces from AliExpress

Image

Image
 
Downside to that stand and most after market stands is you can not remove the rear suspension link if you need to, well not unless you block up the bike and remove the stand.
 
Discussion starter · #52 · (Edited)
I hope it wouldn't come to the need to take the rear link out in field.. at home it's the jack and blocks, so should be all right..
Anyway, center stand is installed, I had no special tools for the springs, used this idea to pull the bigger one. Even with bike on side stand it's quite easy, bike needs to be leaned on the side stand and wheel rotated by foot. :) I will post in the respective thread to let others know as well..
 
I hope it wouldn't come to the need to take the rear link out in field.. at home it's the jack and blocks, so should be all right..
Anyway, center stand is installed, I had no special tools for the springs, used this idea to pull the bigger one. Even with bike on side stand it's quite easy, bike needs to be leaned on the side stand and wheel rotated by foot. :) I will post in the respective thread to let other know as well..
I have never understood why aftermarket stands mount the way they do as the oem way would be just as easy to manufacture. When I had to replace a bearing in the suspension linkage I was fine as I have an ABBA skylift but it was still a pain having to remove the stand to do so. I just recently got/fitted an oem stand so that will not be required in the future.

Yes, those type of springs should be relatively easy, the oem Honda ones are a bit harder, the first isn't too bad but the second one curves over the outside of the first making that much harder to install.

EDIT
Just saw your other post, when I looked at the vid it was the bit with the vice grips so I thought that was what you were meaning but in the other post I see you mention rope and sprocket, that likely would do the springs even on oem.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
Good point about the OEM vs aftermarket designs.. Wonder if it's a patent thing or they don't care. Seems the difference is the connecting rod, which on aftermarket is just a straight piece, while OEM is an assymetrical design..
Sorry, I was not clear enough, you're right I have used the rope/sprocket for the big spring, actually both of them. I was not comfortable messing with pliers around a new bike :D
 
The oem has a tubular section that slides inside the tubular section on the frame. That means it leaves a hole for the suspension linkage bolt to slide through.
Image



The SW Motech one I had and most aftermarket ones I have seen have a bush that goes inside the tube on the frame and held in with a bolt. It means the centre is blocked so to remove the suspension link you need to remove the stand.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
Actually, how is the OEM stand attached? is there anything on the left side at all or is the OEM nut on the right removed and a spacer/washed used to fix the stand?
 
41 - 60 of 140 Posts