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Discussion starter · #81 ·
I'll shortly find out if my theory with a higher load possible will hold :)
I'm in the process of making and fitting a middle piece between the original 12V socket connectors, like Hood advised.
Both ends of this contraption will have Male/Female Sumitomo HX060 connectors. The three legs will have Superseal 2 pins to connect phone mount, Dash cams and TPMS.

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Discussion starter · #82 ·
Right, forgot to take a picture of the finished harness. But all works well and it was fitted under left fairing in the area below 12V aux socket. The kids and wife let me have a couple of hours of me-time tonight so here are the results of that

Switched power connected for:
Phone holder+charger
TPMS
Front and rear dash cams
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Fitted the Heed upper and lower crash bars. Hope they won't take a big hit anytime soon, don't particularly like them being mounted to engine mounts
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And finally the added LED lights. They are very bright, with flat beams, so not DRL but more a fog light. I'll consider a better position, would like to integrate them more closer to bike and less protruding into the space.. and wiring needs cleaning up..
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Discussion starter · #83 · (Edited)
Next to-do are more farkles o_O
Aluminium upper and lower chain guards - Alu/black look

And ordered a replacement battery for my ancient Sena SMH-10 BT intercom as it's almost 10 years old and won't last a full day anymore. Considered getting an upgrade but I'm not a fan of throwing out something that still works, so will wait till it dies and in the meantime will get more life out of it.
 
Discussion starter · #85 ·
First ride yesterday, it was around 4 degrees so only 30 km.

I have found an issue with Cruise control, it will not disengage when rear brake is applied. Bike will slow down but at the same time engine tries to accelerate, when pedal is released it will accelerate back to set speed. Not good and quite unsafe. Luckily I had time and space to react, pressed the front lever and that disengaged the CC.
 
Likely the brake switch needing adjusted. Should have been checked during the PDI but obviously it wasn't.
 
Discussion starter · #87 ·
You're right. It should normally deactivate the cruise control after touching the pedal. Today I have tested it and it will eventually deactivate but only when hard braking
 
Also just in case you don't know, turning the throttle closed a bit more than the normal rest position will also cancel cruise control.
Discovered that last week, lol.
Few times at the highway my cc stopped working hitting rough bumps.
At first thought it was me touching the brakepedal accidently. After that beginning to think of a loose connection lol.
Was just me not holding the gas steady!

Now knowing it, its a great future. Easy sliding of cc without a brake light coming on. Really love that
 
Discussion starter · #91 ·
Just a comment comparing the engine brake on the old Africa Vs the new. I know it's incomparable :) It's more sharing first impressions before forgetting what it felt like on the old bike
The old V twin was really good at engine braking, I hardly ever applied the brakes. Of course it depends on the riding style, which is my case is "retired begginer" :LOL:
The first rides with the CRF show that DCT keeps really low revs, when riding in D/Tour it will not downshift that much and engine braking is almost non existent.
Will check other ride settings hopefully soon, especially the EB. The weather is freezing over here!
 
You will get more EB with the S modes as they change down sooner, put into G mode and it may shift down even sooner and obviously changing the EB setting will give more, 1 is most EB 3 is least.
 
Discussion starter · #94 ·
So first rides show a lot of helmet buffeting which I had expected due to my height and tall torso. OEM screen in top position is pointing the air exactly at the helmet beak... If I stretch my torso and neck it's better, as the air is driven towards the helmet screen, however the wind noise in my old Uvex Enduro helmet is quite overwhelming then..
Will try following:
1. Wind deflector in the fuel tank / forks area, I believe there is no OEM wind deflector for screen sides and tank sides for the 2025 ATAS yet..
2. Lower OEM screen to the lowest position although don't like the idea of the wind directly hitting the helmet, see above
3. Research aftermarket screens. Here I am a bit unsure, on the old XRV had the same issue, replaced the screen with MRA Vario Touring which was the tallest option then with extended deflector. But still experienced buffeting with the deflector in high position. Was less uncomfortable to decrease the deflector and be blasted by straight wind flow at highway speeds, even though more noisy..
 
Discussion starter · #96 ·
Thanks @Dieselboy
Any personal experience or pics on the CRF?
Doesn't it put too much pressure on the windscreen? I see there are bolt on and clamp on versions available
 
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This one I used a permanent mount by drilling. The system has a non-invasive clamp mount also.

On my VFR, I used the clamps:

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I estimate over 180,000 miles between the two bikes using this attachment. No issues.
 
Discussion starter · #98 ·
Thanks for posting the pics! It's not so intrusive like I have imagined.

Did it solve the issues for you?
 
Thanks for posting the pics! It's not so intrusive like I have imagined.

Did it solve the issues for you?
Absolutely! I like more wind as opposed to a vacuum in the cockpit. Thus I don't prefer huge aftermarket windscreens and wind deflectors all over the place. But this spoiler allows me to get clean wind. Because it's adjustable I can dial it in.

I was getting a slight buffeting that I was able to adjust out.
 
I've used the deflectors on an ST1100 and like the ability to use it for directing air to my helmet. Insufferable heat in summer that ST. But it sitting in my line of sight is very annoying. On my ATAS I find the aerodynamics of the OEM screen near perfect, like the rest of the bike. Lucky to not need the spoiler. Height: 5'9" inseam 31" ( 1.75m, .7874m)
 
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