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For now, it appears normal battery refers to any non lithium battery be it lead acid or AGM.
I asked the question of @JakeDix because of the implication that all lead-acid batteries were normal and he adequately answered that.

To be clear and for the purpose of expanding the knowledge base here there are different types of lead-acid batteries and we shouldn't tar them all with the same brush, the different types include:

Flooded wet cell which require maintenance by way of topping up with deionised water
Flooded wet cell SLA (sealed lead-acid) which are sealed for life and maintenance free (no need to top up)
AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) a variation on the SLA design where the acid is suspended in fibreglass matting
GEL which is similar to AGM but the acid is suspended in a silica

Both AGM and GEL batteries can be mounted sideways, flooded wet cell batteries can only be mounted upright.

Today's choice of lead-acid battery should be between AGM or GEL, my preference being AGM because they are typically less expensive than GEL batteries, both AGM and GEL batteries are far better value for money than the reassuringly expensive lithium batteries, despite what some sales folk would want us to believe.
 
Keep in mind that LiPo batteries are charged at a different rate than an AGM or flooded battery. There may be a Honda setting in the computer that has to be changed so the bike will properly charge the AGM Battery.
There is a different rate of charge for a lithium battery. But its handled by the batteries built-in BMS.
Apparently, cells have to be balanced + up to temperature before absorption recharging can commence.
We lease cars, interesting that a 2022 CX3 has a flooded wet cell battery! Better at STOP/STARTING cranking, i guess
 
Lead acid batteries have the advantage of being more tolerant to charging abuse and heavy/active cycling.

One thing for sure, during a post-EMP (electro magnetic pulse that can precede a nuclear target event), the BMS on LiFePO4 batteries will be subject to risk of failure. On the other hand, the old school lead acid type batteries will still function.

Handy to know, ... you know? ..., in a pinch.
 
Just fitted a new yuasa YTZ14S battery today, as I removed the old YTZ14S battery I was amazed it had lasted so long since my bike is a 2017 dct only to find the previous owner had written April 21 on the side in white marker pen.
Well that didn't last long did it .
 
Lead acid batteries have the advantage of being more tolerant to charging abuse and heavy/active cycling.

One thing for sure, during a post-EMP (electro magnetic pulse that can precede a nuclear target event), the BMS on LiFePO4 batteries will be subject to risk of failure. On the other hand, the old school lead acid type batteries will still function.

Handy to know, ... you know? ..., in a pinch.
In a post EMP situation, the battery is probably the last thing I'd worry about in most bikes built after what 1980? That's why I keep two old kick-start, points & condenser Honda's in the garage. ;)
 
I asked the question of @JakeDix because of the implication that all lead-acid batteries were normal and he adequately answered that.

To be clear and for the purpose of expanding the knowledge base here there are different types of lead-acid batteries and we shouldn't tar them all with the same brush, the different types include:
I'm not sure if it was inadvertant but that statement brought back memories of when you could buy rebuilt car batteries. As i recall the cases were sealed with tar.
Carry on.
 
Has anyone had any problems when replacing the original lithium battery withe a Yuasa YTZ7S? I recently replaced my battery with the YTZ and my bike struggles at the first crank of the day. Once the bike runs, it will start no problems. My battery has been check and properly hold its load and the charging system is working fine. There is no indications that my starter is dragging. My only conclusion is the new battery might not be adequate. Any feed back would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
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