I mean tubes don't cost that much to replace if you do your own tires. I would replace them for peace of mind and throw them in panniers as spares

 

Sounds like original tubes in what must be at least a second set of tires? If so, then they have been through at least one changing procedure?

 

3 x rear
4 x front
(All road riding)

Where do you feel comfortable changing them? At home, or on the road?

Will be done by a Tyre Fitter…..I can and have done my self but for what its worth (needs a new front tyre and supply and fit costs is negligible against doing my self with basic equipment).

 

Where do you feel comfortable changing them? At home, or on the road?

 

That was a great question , I'm still on the OEM tyres and tubes , lack of use more than anything , but I have only 4500 miles on clock.

 

In my mind I have come up with 5 years for a tube max if I was riding a far distance away from home. If I was just local riding I wouldn't even worry about it, if it holds air no problem. I am comfortable with this because I can always call for help and get someone to bring me a spare tube or my trailer.

I usually change my tubes every time I change a tire and I usually wont get 5 years out of a tire. However I gave myself a pinch flat on the front tire so I am reusing the front OEM tube again. Typically I would be two rear tires and two tubes to one front tire and tube.

Currently my front tube is 3 years old.

 

This sounds like a question that could get wildly differing answers ...

... sounds like you've already got magic tubes ... how did they last through that many changes? As we've heard it is sometimes suggested to change a tube every time a tire is removed/replaced and I guess pinching/cutting a tube upon installation is common. My guess is a moderately ridden tube in a moderately maintained/garaged bike could go six, eight, ten years. Don't have any words of wisdom but a couple of thoughts - how do the valve stems look? Might help make a determination. And if you do switch-out, do so well before your trip. It would be just my luck that existing tubes would have gone for ten years, but then trying to be careful if I switched out to new I'd discover a micro pinch on a new tube that wouldn't result in a flat until precisely the morning of my journey

 

@Fuzzcat
I knew it was a proverbial opinion grenade the moment I posted it 🤣 - I know there is no fixed answer but I am interested in varied views and I just wanted general opinion really.
I think I will get the front replaced when the tyre is done (next month) that gives me the right spare (in case of emergencies) to carry AND the timing will be two months before the trip. Enough testing time, I too have similar luck. 😉

I think what has helped longev is the tubes haven’t done any off road really (lots of tracks and pot holes but no extreme stuff), and the tyres get changed using professional equipment (not irons etc)?

 

When I saw the title I though Blur were on the go again and out with a new song.

 

When I saw the title I though Blur were on the go again and out with a new song

When I saw the title I though Blur these guys were on the go again and out with a new song

 

The replacement of tubes is a bit more complicated. There are two types of motorcycle tube, butyl synthetic rubber and natural rubber. The tubes that come with Japanese bikes are butyl tubes. Being that butyl tubes are synthetic they age more slowly than natural rubber tubes. Natural rubber ages more quickly but the tub material is more stretchy so they resist pinching and minor punctures a bit better. The natural rubber also seems to lose air pressure more slowly as the butyl tube materials will tear open when punctured rather than keep the puncture hole intact. There are many arguments about this.
Now - the most common source of tube failures if not punctured or pinched is the valve stem, where it is bonded into the tube. This area flexes around quite a bit and can fatigue after a while regardless of the tube material. This being the case I always replace a tube with each tire change, just for insurance.
Another thing that I learned a long time ago is to not tighten the nuts holding the valve stem in place. I used the nut just to hold the valve stem in place to mount the tire and inflate it but then I loosen the nut away from the rim and up against the valve cap. I do this because I want to know that the tube is properly set in the tire and if it is not the valve stem will be at an angle - you want the valve stem to be straight as this indicates that the stem is not stressing the bond where it is attached to the tube. Another reason to keep the valve stem nut backed off is that you can tell if the tire bead has slipped on the rim. If the tire slips a bit the valve stem will tilt indicating this. A tightened down valve stem nut will not allow the stem to move and a slipped tire can tear the stem away out of the tube. If the stem is tilted you can let the air out of the tire and use a pair of pliers to recenter the tube and stem. Sometimes you have to let the air out and re-inflate a couple of time to do this. Tire slippage is more common if you reduce air pressure when riding off road. Though not common slippage can happen any time though with hard braking or hitting rocks or riding fast on rough pavement.

Dan

 

The replacement of tubes is a bit more complicated. There are two types of motorcycle tube, butyl synthetic rubber and natural rubber. The tubes that come with Japanese bikes are butyl tubes. Being that butyl tubes are synthetic they age more slowly than natural rubber tubes. Natural rubber ages more quickly but the tub material is more stretchy so they resist pinching and minor punctures a bit better. The natural rubber also seems to lose air pressure more slowly as the butyl tube materials will tear open when punctured rather than keep the puncture hole intact. There are many arguments about this.
Now - the most common source of tube failures if not punctured or pinched is the valve stem, where it is bonded into the tube. This area flexes around quite a bit and can fatigue after a while regardless of the tube material. This being the case I always replace a tube with each tire change, just for insurance.
Another thing that I learned a long time ago is to not tighten the nuts holding the valve stem in place. I used the nut just to hold the valve stem in place to mount the tire and inflate it but then I loosen the nut away from the rim and up against the valve cap. I do this because I want to know that the tube is properly set in the tire and if it is not the valve stem will be at an angle - you want the valve stem to be straight as this indicates that the stem is not stressing the bond where it is attached to the tube. Another reason to keep the valve stem nut backed off is that you can tell if the tire bead has slipped on the rim. If the tire slips a bit the valve stem will tilt indicating this. A tightened down valve stem nut will not allow the stem to move and a slipped tire can tear the stem away out of the tube. If the stem is tilted you can let the air out of the tire and use a pair of pliers to recenter the tube and stem. Sometimes you have to let the air out and re-inflate a couple of time to do this. Tire slippage is more common if you reduce air pressure when riding off road. Though not common slippage can happen any time though with hard braking or hitting rocks or riding fast on rough pavement.

Dan

Cheers for the explanation Dan,

By that count (tyre changes) I am looooong overdue.

Stem nut - that is some thing I learned whilst cycling so do this naturally on the AT, but thanks for raising it.👍🏻

 

I have just replaced my tyres and asked the fitter to re-use the tubes. I gave him some new tubes just in case he couldn't. So you might wonder why? 😄 Well my tubes are filled with 30 quidsworth of BikeSeal. He said they looked perfect so I'm happy with that
Mike

 

Cheers Mike,
I’ve done some reading on this and as expected opinions vary massively. Two constant are, tubes do degrade over time and failure is often catastrophic (blow out, stem failure etc).

I think a lot goes down to how and where the bike is rode, fitment of tyre and tube, frequency of use. So no fixed rule to replace (as expected) just down to a modicum of sense over those factor.

I am hopefully embarking on a 3500 mile journey in June, I think it’s sensible to replace both front and back on my AT. They are 4yrs old and I doubt they will thank me if I put them through that journey at their age. 😆

Which leads me on to the next predicament of which tubes 😆- I’m thinking a known brand - Michelin.

 

This is what I used for the rear. As you can see it is originally for a KTM. I would do top-shelf brands only when it comes to long trips... on a farm bike I would put anything that holds air and is near the right size and shape. bwahahaha

OEM tubes are really good quality as well... definitely worth getting again.

 

Lupolee, make the tires tubless better, time ago I sent a video to do it, very cheap... Saludos.