Fuzeblocks FZ1
Rowe Electronics Amplink
Rowe Electronics PDM60
Neutrino Blackbox
Denali Powerhub2

 

I installed one of these Healtech Thunderbox power distribution modules. Very small, fully protective of your accessories and the bikes electrical system. It can automatically turn itself on and off or you can provide a signal wire to it to activate/ deactivate it. It is also fully encapsulated and waterproof. Very happy with it and it is quick and simple to install and it is reasonably priced. It is available in two versions depending on how much load you want to put on it.

Thunder Box (TB) - HealTech Electronics Ltd.

The Thunder Box simplifies and safeguards the process of connecting aftermarket electronic accessories to your motorcycle, such as heated grips, GPS, etc...

www.healtech-electronics.com

 

I installed one of these Healtech Thunderbox power distribution modules. Very small, fully protective of your accessories and the bikes electrical system. It can automatically shuts itself on and off or you can provide a signal wire to it to activate/ deactivate it. It is also fully encapsulated and waterproof. Very happy with it and it is quick and simple to install and it is reasonably priced. It is available in two versions depending on how much load you want to put on it.

Thunder Box (TB) - HealTech Electronics Ltd.

The Thunder Box simplifies and safeguards the process of connecting aftermarket electronic accessories to your motorcycle, such as heated grips, GPS, etc...

www.healtech-electronics.com

I had one on my previous bike. A brilliant little bit of kit.

 

This switched fuse block is about $25 in US, just installed on my bike.

Amazon.com

 

Thanks!

When you mean your bike, did you mean Africa Twin? is this safe?

 

Fuzeblock is good as it lets you decide if accessories are powered all the time or by ignition using the accessory power lead and battery without touching any canbus

 

I have the PDM60, yeah, a bit pricey, but programmable and no actual fuses to replace or have to carry. I programmed the bank to my GPS to stay on for 2min so when at a gas fill up my GPS doesn’t keep wanting to turn off. But you can program the banks to do so much, the thing is pretty amazing..Probably the best feature is switched to ground. So you can actually hook some serious amount of amperage to it as long as it’s the ground wire.

PDM60 | Rowe Electronics

www.rowe-electronics.com

 

The thunderbox won't switch any of your fogs or applications on until the engine is running.

 

Yes, I did like that feature and it does a cost a little more for those nice features.

 

Below is a link to my previous review of the relay you ordered.
It contains a simple integrated relay, so if you tie the signal input to a wire that comes alive when the key is turned on (like the tail light or horn circuit), it will turn all four ports on. For $25 it’s really all most of us need. It won’t know or care if the engine is running or not, just that the key has been switched on.

Fuse block and integrated relay, cheap and small

Electop 12V Fuse Block with Relay. Purchased on Amazon and installed this weekend. The size and price is what made me pull the trigger, it’s tiny and cheap (~$25 US). 3.38” x 1.78” x 0.95” (86mm x 45mm x 24mm). I don’t have any heavy loads that need a timed delay, and this is far more...

www.africatwinforum.com

 

Below is a link to my previous review of the relay you ordered.
It contains a simple integrated relay, so if you tie the signal input to a wire that comes alive when the key is turned on (like the tail light or horn circuit), it will turn all four ports on. For $25 it’s really all most of us need. It won’t know or care if the engine is running or not, just that the key has been switched on.

Fuse block and integrated relay, cheap and small

Electop 12V Fuse Block with Relay. Purchased on Amazon and installed this weekend. The size and price is what made me pull the trigger, it’s tiny and cheap (~$25 US). 3.38” x 1.78” x 0.95” (86mm x 45mm x 24mm). I don’t have any heavy loads that need a timed delay, and this is far more...

www.africatwinforum.com

Thanks again!

Read that thread as well. Question - I currently have:

1. Fog lights - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BBFLR8CB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2. Charging SAE connector for heater gear
3. Charging SAE connector for trickle charge to battery.

Will this fuse block support the above?

Ramjee

 

I would not recommend using the 20A fuse block for anything that will draw a lot of power, especially heated gear.

 

@satx_tengu By heated gear, I meant wired gloves and in the product details, I see:

• Power consumption: 22 Watts (2 Amps)

Is that too much? Also, the fog lights I mentioned above says 100W on Amazon Wesbite and when I used a calculator tool to convert 100W to amps based on 12v, it said 8.33 amps. So, it would be a total of 10.3 amps including the lights and gloves. Would that be correct?

 

Your math is correct, Volts x Amps = Watts.
The only concern is that if everything is plugged in and starts pulling it’s full load while the bike is also trying to start it does add a bit of extra work for the battery to do, and that’s one advantage the $200-$300 intelligent switches can bring. I run a couple of USB chargers, etc so my loads are very low and it isn’t a factor.
Also, the 4 low-profile fuses that come with the fuse block are 5A each, so you’ll need to swap one of the 5’s for at least a 10A to run the 100 Watt fog lights. With 2A being used for the gloves, that leaves you with almost 10A remaining, but go conservative and assume you’ve used 12A. That leaves 8A to run small loads through the remaining 2 ports.
Once the motor is running the alternator takes over.

 

Ramjee,
Forgot to mention that this type of relay fuse block will NOT work for the trickle charger to battery, that really should be directly on the battery terminals. If you think about it, the only way the relay activates and makes the connection between the block and the battery is if the key is ON, that would never be done in a trickle charge scenario.

 

Ramjee,
Forgot to mention that this type of relay fuse block will NOT work for the trickle charger to battery, that really should be directly on the battery terminals. If you think about it, the only way the relay activates and makes the connection between the block and the battery is if the key is ON, that would never be done in a trickle charge scenario.

Thanks @Svrdhd

1. If I swap one of the 5Amps fuses to 10A wouldn't that be an issue because this is a 20A fuse block?
2. The heated gear input will only be used when the alternator is kicked in. I guess that shouldn't be an issue then?

Also, could you please let me know as how to tap in to the power supply from existing line without directly hooking up to the battery? You had mentioned in your other thread that you tapped in to the main fuse box - horn. Please share some pics as well.

 

Ramjee,
The raw power for your new fuse block will have to come from the battery, there’s no way around that. That and your trickle charge SAE plug (I’m assuming) need to be added to the battery terminals.
The ‘signal’ that wakes up the fuse block is looking for 12V, and that’s the wire that I tapped in my previous thread (stop/horn). Pics were included in that post. This is a tiny 12V draw that simply activates a relay switch inside your new fuse block and won’t be noticed on whatever circuit it’s on.
My bike is a 2020, but look at your motorcycle’s fuse box and find the wire that come out the bottom from your fuse box for horn/stop or similar key-activated power. The fuse box lifts up so this wire should be very easy to get to. My pics in the other thread show this. This is much easier than working at the rear of the bike and bringing the tail light signal back to the new fuse block.
You new fuse block should have included the ‘tap’ that will cut through the insulation sheath on both the small trigger wire and the wire you will use as a switched signal. Using this is helpful as you don’t have to cut anything.
Close the plastic tap case very tightly to make sure you get good electrical contact on both wires.

Regarding the 10A fuse, the fuses don’t determine the load, it’s simply a total of loads that you install that pull current. To insure that you don’t accidentally overload the new block, you can pull the 5’s and install a 10A, 5A, 3A, and a 2A and hold the 5’s as emergency spares. Remember, these are low-profile minis.

 

Ramjee,
The raw power for your new fuse block will have to come from the battery, there’s no way around that. That and your trickle charge SAE plug (I’m assuming) need to be added to the battery terminals.
The ‘signal’ that wakes up the fuse block is looking for 12V, and that’s the wire that I tapped in my previous thread (stop/horn). Pics were included in that post. This is a tiny 12V draw that simply activates a relay switch inside your new fuse block and won’t be noticed on whatever circuit it’s on.
My bike is a 2020, but look at your motorcycle’s fuse box and find the wire that come out the bottom from your fuse box for horn/stop or similar key-activated power. The fuse box lifts up so this wire should be very easy to get to. My pics in the other thread show this. This is much easier than working at the rear of the bike and bringing the tail light signal back to the new fuse block.
You new fuse block should have included the ‘tap’ that will cut through the insulation sheath on both the small trigger wire and the wire you will use as a switched signal. Using this is helpful as you don’t have to cut anything.
Close the plastic tap case very tightly to make sure you get good electrical contact on both wires.

Regarding the 10A fuse, the fuses don’t determine the load, it’s simply a total of loads that you install that pull current. To insure that you don’t accidentally overload the new block, you can pull the 5’s and install a 10A, 5A, 3A, and a 2A and hold the 5’s as emergency spares. Remember, these are low-profile minis.

Thanks a TON again for the detailed explanation. Everything is clear. The only part where some more clarity is needed is:

You new fuse block should have included the ‘tap’ that will cut through the insulation sheath on both the small trigger wire and the wire you will use as a switched signal. Using this is helpful as you don’t have to cut anything.

Could you please help with just the above line?

Ramjee

 

It’s the red plastic connectors that came with the fuse block with the metal insert in it. You only need one, I don’t know why they ship three.
Push both the switched wire (horn/stop wire in my case) and the trigger wire from the fuse block down hard into the narrow metal valley to ‘skin’ the insulation from both wires and make an electrical connection between them.
Close the tap connector case very tightly and you should be done. If no electrical connection when you turn on your key, re-seat the wires into the channel again to get bare wire to touch and short circuit the metal and make the connection you need.

 

It’s the red plastic connectors that came with the fuse block with the metal insert in it. You only need one, I don’t know why they ship three.
Push both the switched wire (horn/stop wire in my case) and the trigger wire from the fuse block down hard into the narrow metal valley to ‘skin’ the insulation from both wires and make an electrical connection between them.
Close the tap connector case very tightly and you should be done. If no electrical connection when you turn on your key, re-seat the wires into the channel again to get bare wire to touch and short circuit the metal and make the connection you need.

Thanks!

Is this the fuse box that you I should be tapping in to? I am not able to reach the wires under the box.

Also, I was originally planning to tap in to the aux connector which is under the passenger seat.