I have spent months trying to develop maps using the rapidbike evo system and have given up. I now think any improvements were imaginary. Rapidbike even admitted to me that their system does not work well at low rpm and low loadings (something to do with the O2 sensor I think they said).
I was considering the Woolwich system but as you may see from another thread, suddenly my bike began to feel good at the bottom end. This lasted for about 700 miles but has now reverted to it's normal poor state (as you describe above). So I may revisit the Woolwich idea again especially as my insurer say it would be OK.
Mike

 

Sorry to hear that the improvements you saw only lasted for 700 miles. I wonder why. I would think that RB would do most of its improvements in the low rpm range. Might have to talk with a tuner to understand your problem.

 

BTW Mike, how long did it take you to install approximately? Really appreciate your input! Cheers, Daniel

 

Sorry WW - I don't think my timescale for installation would be much use to you. I think I did it over 2 or 3 days (I'm very slow), but a competent mechanic ought to be able to do it in 3 or 4 hours..
One other point I think may be important. All of RapidBike's expertise (and Powercommander's too) is focussed on getting more performance from a bike. You can see this just by looking at all the publicity and the instruction manuals. And I am sure that their equipment works great for guys wanting to get the maximum from track days etc.
However, I also am sure that many riders have been pushing these companies to solve only the problem you and I are concerned about (low rpm surging and hesitation). And this must have been going on for 10 years or more. So what concerns me is that neither company has reliably solved it. Of course I am talking mainly about my own experience and there may be many many riders out there for whom it has worked. (It did for me with a powercommander back in 2009 on a Kawasaki Versys).
Mike

 

Just got a quote from EDR Performance for the RB EVO unit, install, DNA air filter/install, dyno tuning and air injection blockoff plates (I think this relates to the PAIR air injection system mandated by the EPA). Dyno Tuning $425, EVO/install (3.5 hours)/blockoff plates $1160, airfilters/install $320.

I'll probably skip the dyno tuning and air filters. Any suggestions/feedback from your experience?

 

I'd run the Rapid Bike Evo and let it do it's auto adaptive tuning for a while. I don't know what you have done to your bike but there are a couple base maps for the CRF1100 in the RB software, one for stock and one for full exhaust. While the stock narrowband O2 sensor isn't as precise or as quick to make adjustments as the weld-in wideband O2 sensor My Tuning setup, I feel it's fine for most street applications considering the added expense.

Overall, I'm happy with the Rapid Bike setup on my 18 ATAS along with PAIR removal and block off. You can do the filters later, I don't think it is critical and the auto adaptive will adjust for any changes.

 

Hi. Thanks so much for your reply!!!

Are you saying that you don't think it's worth the added expense of the dyno tuning?

The tuner asserts that the EVO won't make any changes to the fueling below 2500 rpm. He said it uses the OEM narrow band o2 sensors to micro adjust the mapping. So, if custom dyno tuning is the only cure for the below 2500 rpm fueling issues, I will go that route. I just don't understand what the point of the EVO is in this scenario. If he is going to do a custom tune from idle to redline, then what is the point of the EVO?

 

I may just be confused. Is the Guy with the dyno going to re-flash the ECU or make a map for the RB?

I wish someone like Vortex/GET/AiM would just make a new ECU with several maps installed for you to choose depending on your mods. Just ordered an AiM for my 450 with a 2 map switch for the bar. No piggy-back controller seems like a better way.

 

Don't worry. I'm confused also and the tuner is getting tired of answering my questions!

So, my options are for him to load a base map that "works well" for him or to have him custom tune on a dyno. Both options include the installation of the RB EVO. What I don't understand is, what is the point of the EVO module if he is doing a custom tune? EVO has an auto-tune function that automatically makes small adjustments based on your riding style and weather during the first 100 or so miles. The EVO is not capable of making changes below 2500 rpm. But, this tuner, on his dyno, can remap the bike from idle to redline. I'm not sure if the base map he can load without the tuning is going to fix the surging issue I experience at low rpms (1100 to 2500, I'd estimate). This is a big question that I haven't gotten an answer to. So, whether to have him custom tune the bike on a dyno is the big question (it's a $425 cost alone- you have to add the module and installation cost as well) or whether the base map and the auto-tune function will suffice. It's $1120 for the EVO and installation alone, so another $425 if I figure I need the custom map.

Any tuners or those with experience with the EVO fuel tuner, feel free to share your experience/perspective. to illuminate.

Cheers!

 

Have you looked at woolichracing?
www.woolichracing.com

 

Woolich would have been my preferred option had it been available for my bike at the time as it does open up more tuning options in the ecu. Since not every shop uses or wants to use every brand of tuning/flash kit out there, if you don't have a shop that uses their setup then you're flashing a map from Woolich or welding in a bung for wideband O2 sensor and developing your own map with autotune while riding so a bit more work on the end user.

 

Forgot to mention Nomadic_adv: regarding the PAIR removal and block off you mentioned, I was told by EDR that "we do not have block off plates for them, we simply block the hose off where it goes into the airbox." On the quote, it says "plug PAIR valve" Does this accomplish the same thing?

 

No problem, happy to help. The Rapid Bike My Tuning setup is an option for the RB module that adds a wideband O2 sensor to improve auto adaptive tuning function as the wideband sensor is much more accurate and allows for faster corrections. You have to drill and weld in a threaded bung in the exhaust pipe for the additional wideband O2 sensor. I haven't really felt it necessary for street or ADV bike like the AT. Some sportbikes, track or race bikes, sure.

MIL is malfunction indicator light, check engine light, etc.

Just overall feel at throttle opening and off/on throttle pickup, no popping on decel, no more stalling or bogging - though that was more likely due to replacing the injectors that were not at their best due to the fuel tank flaking issues - that I replaced with serviced/cleaned and tested injectors. The full Termignoni exhaust map I started with for my Leo Vince full system was definitely a bit rich in places and the auto adaptive tuning has been removing a bit of fuel in a some areas while adding in others, as expected. Mostly I don't have any real areas of concern with fueling right now which is nice.

Rapid Bike USA is also responsive to email inquiries for RB users as well and can remote in to your pc and RB software to check settings and make adjustments if necessary too.

No issues with just blocking the hose on the PAIR valve, whatever works.

 

Or even more plug and play for the 1000 (hopefully soon for 1100) the UpMap

 

I am surprised to read that RB does not attempt to autotune below 2500rpm. If that's true then the RB factory in Italy wasted a great deal of my time helping me build maps in exactly that rev range. Also Wheelwatcher, if you take a look at those map pictures, you will notice they don't start adding fuel until you have opened the throttle to at least 5%. This is above the level where you and I want to cure the hesitation and surging. There are things you can do to try to crack it (for instance I set the first few columns at just 1% difference, and I set the early rows at just 200rpm differences. You can also set a parameter that averages the inputs between the set columns. So for instance on the standard map at 2500rpm if you were holding the throttle open at 2.5%, then the EVO would be inputting 3.5% extra fuel (being half way between the zero and 5% values). This is all speaking theoretically of course, as it all made no real difference to me even though at the time I imagined it did. By the way that supposed standard RB Evo map looks nothing like the one I downloaded .... and I can't believe that putting all that extra fuel in even with the throttle pretty well open, is going to improve matters.
Mike

 

In the RB software when connected to the bike, on the auto adaptivity tab / screen there's a slider bar to set minimum start correction for auto adaptive tuning, on mine start correction is set at 2600 rpm while corrections start at 2400 rpm according to the auto adaptive map. Some bikes and brands have a higher rpm starting point, like 3600 rpm to prevent triggering a MIL.

As I said, I'd ride it and put some miles on it with whatever map the tuner recommends to see how it feels to you. No two bikes are the same or in the exact same state of tune so results can and will vary. You can go back to the tuner or RB with questions or comments on the fueling and if you feel it needs work, decide on which direction to take from there.

 

This was a lot of info... Any news did it work did it make more power was it heavier on fuel did you guys do something else software update or programming?

 

 

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